Here's another mod I did recently (like, last weekend): replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter. Specifically a basic Autometer unit, bought from Summit for about 40 bucks delivered. Got the idea from Nick Menudier, who uses the same voltmeter for the swap. Here's mine.
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Voltmeter, anyone?
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I like that and while my gauge is out I may actually make that mod myself! Summit is getting to know me too well these days...1970 Bronco
My build thread
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1970, Exploder 5.0 with P heads, EEC-IV EDIS, lots of wiring.
Originally posted by CityHickI suddenly feel rich and feel the need to dump more cash into my Bronco.
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Some instructions
A few more details.
The gauge comes with a light that plugs into the back. Didn't need it. I pried the bezel off the front and tossed it. I found the white plastic case to be a little long. The front hit the stock instrument faceplate- the one with the rectangular cutouts- and held the voltmeter too far back. So I cut it down verrrrryy carefully with a hacksaw, till the white plastic extended barely past the voltmeter's black face. Between the translucent white plastic and the gap I created in front (similar to what the stock instruments have) plenty of light gets into the gauge face from the OEM instrument bulbs.
The stock ammeter hole is sort of oblong. Obvious when you take the cluster apart. Strip everything down to the bare stamped steel housing. Mark a 2" hole centered around the stock ammeter cutout. Try to push it as close to the speedo as possible, so the gauge face lines up well with the rectangular instrument cutout- it'll be obvious when you try to line things up. You don't need to remove that much- it goes pretty quick.
I made some zee brackets out of aluminum sheet (have lots of that lying around because of the airplane project) to hold the gauge in place. Used the screws on the back of the voltmeter. One fuel gauge screw lined up, I had to make one new hole in the steel case to pick up the other zee bracket.
A little RTV sealed the gap around the backside of the voltmeter, to keep dust out.
If you want to get fancy, go to a hobby shop and buy some day-glo orange paint to repaint the needles on your other gauges. I was lazy and didn't bother. So the bright new voltmeter needle says "look at me!!!"
Tap into the wire that feeds the instrument regulator to get a switched 12V source. Make another wire to run to a convenient ground. I don't trust the instrument case being grounded to my dash because of paint, so I ran it to a bolt under the dash that I use for grounding other stuff.1970, Exploder 5.0 with P heads, EEC-IV EDIS, lots of wiring.
Originally posted by CityHickI suddenly feel rich and feel the need to dump more cash into my Bronco.
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Re: Voltmeter, anyone?
Interesting. I prefer an ammeter over a voltmeter myself.70 rebuilt 302, Edelbrock Performer intake and carb, C4, 20 w/aftermarket gears & HD output, D44 w/Power-lock, disks, 4:88, 9 in Detroit, PS, PB, winch, lights, rock bumpers, full cage, 3 1/2" WH lift, 2" body lift, IROK 37's, 23 gal tank
"70" CJ-5 ('58 frame, '70 tub, '72 running gear, '80 motor) 350 sbc, 5 1/2 in lift, 35's, PS, PB, full cage, lockers, 5.38's re-gear spring over going in soon.
And a bunch of other crap, some of them run.....
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Re: Voltmeter, anyone?
Originally posted by Sierra Backwoods View PostInteresting. I prefer an ammeter over a voltmeter myself.sigpicRoad trips on an island get boring after the 1st lap...
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Re: Voltmeter, anyone?
"Everything I've read about the 3G upgrade says the stock ammeter won't work so this was a fairly straight forward upgrade for the high output alternator..."
Well that explains why the change is being made! EB's must use a Hall Effect ammeter. Too bad it wasn't a shunt type, or it could be re-calibrated with a parallel resistor.70 rebuilt 302, Edelbrock Performer intake and carb, C4, 20 w/aftermarket gears & HD output, D44 w/Power-lock, disks, 4:88, 9 in Detroit, PS, PB, winch, lights, rock bumpers, full cage, 3 1/2" WH lift, 2" body lift, IROK 37's, 23 gal tank
"70" CJ-5 ('58 frame, '70 tub, '72 running gear, '80 motor) 350 sbc, 5 1/2 in lift, 35's, PS, PB, full cage, lockers, 5.38's re-gear spring over going in soon.
And a bunch of other crap, some of them run.....
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Re: Voltmeter, anyone?
Originally posted by Fungus232 View PostEverything I've read about the 3G upgrade says the stock ammeter won't work so this was a fairly straight forward upgrade for the high output alternator...1971 EB: 3.5" 4 link rear, wristed front, 2" body, 96 Explorer 5.0 EDIS EEC-IV, C6, Nissan PS, Hydroboost w/front disks, 4.88 9" w/spool, D44 w/ aussie locker, TRO, 37" MTRs
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