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**highlander** · 04-30-2007, 09:20 PM

Do you already have the rock skis? There are some other heavy duty rocker replacement panels.
http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.p...ker+rplacement
If you have the BC skis or one's that mount in the same way the biggest problem is how they mount on the outer edge of the rocker. You could reinforce the inside of the stock rocker, maybe with a 1x3 square tube inside to allow something substantial to bolt into.
For my self I would still prefer to isolate the ski from the body. You wouldn't mount a bumper to your body and that's how my rockers end up being used (not intentionally).

**Delta 4 Wheel** · 05-01-2007, 01:38 AM

Originally posted by 720Racer

Yeah, I think I get it. The tube is to replace the strength lost by cutting the rocker? Then repalce it with some kind of ski. Would it be possible to reinforce the top of the BC's 1/4" ski, and use it as a replacement for the rocker? Then I could just tie it into the frame and it would have the OE shape? What thinckness is appropriate for ski's? I see how it will be eaiser to tie the cage into the ski's (already tied into the frame), than to the frame.

A good friend of mine covered some perfect rockers with BC 1/4 inch rocker covers. After 2 years of some pretty hard wheeling, he removed the rockers to paint the rig and found that under the undented rocker covers were thrashed rockers. The BC rockers flex and allow you to completely destroy your stock rockers without knowing it. I agree with all who vote to have the rockers isolated from the body and mounted directly to the frame. If you like the stock rocker look, you could make something that mounts to the frame, and then tightly comes up and protects the stock rockers. With your nice tube bender, I bet you cna come up with a bitchen new way of doing this...

**720Racer** · 05-01-2007, 06:57 PM

Do you already have the rock skis?

Yeah, I already have them (bought them in 2005 off CB classifieds), and am not dead set on keeping them. I can picture what's going to happen here now that it's been explained. I was thinking I could "box" the BC's ski's and then cut the rockers, and fab a ski using the boxed material. They would keep some of the stock rocker shape, but would fix the problems you and Delta are describing. Is .250 wall enough for a rock ski? (I'm thinking it is), I know it's a little more work than a piece of 2x4 tubing, but would get the same result. I'd have to cut the top of the BC's piece down to match how much of the stock rocker I leave (I'm thinking 1" to 1 1/2") Clear as mud?

You wouldn't mount a bumper to your body and that's how my rockers end up being used (not intentionally).

The more I think about the way BC's intended them to be mounted, the more I see what other problems it would create.

**720Racer** · 05-01-2007, 07:03 PM

Most of my brackets came from Ballistic today, but still no Flexx joints. Just enough to get me excited, but no way to weld up the brackets with out at least one joint to use as a spacer. I have been able to refine my measurements on the 4 link calculator. I had to raise the uppers and lowers at the frame, but only 2" or 3", easy stuff. It looks like I may not need to notch into the tub, or if I do it'll only be 2" or so. Nothing that you will even be able to see unless the seat is out.

**720Racer** · 05-01-2007, 07:21 PM

.....It looks like I may not need to notch into the tub, or if I do it'll only be 2" or so. Nothing that you will even be able to see unless the seat is out.

I'm really happy with the way it all fits together, except, I'd like to lower the lower shock mount. If it do notch into the bed under the back seat (I'm thinking I will), I'll actually need to notch a little higher (maybe 6") to accomidate the upper shock mount. If I could lower the bottom shock mount 3" from where Ballistic put it, and raise the upper shock mount 4" above the top of the upper coil mount, I think I can run a 16" shock in the back (vertically).

**highlander** · 05-01-2007, 07:29 PM

Poly Performance did the same thing to me I have had the brackets for over a month now, just need some joints.

What size studs do you order on the flex joints?

As far as the BC rock skis I still think they are a great product, on my first bronco I devastated the stock rockers with minor bumps, with the rock skis I have hit rocks so hard that my inertia switch tripped with no major damage. For someone who needs some bolt on protection or wants to cover up some damaged rockers they are great. They would also work well for someone who wants a little added security who doesn't plan on letting there rockers hit anything.
I just want something that can be drug over rocks without thinking about it.

**720Racer** · 05-01-2007, 07:49 PM

What size studs do you order on the flex joints?

The lowers are 1.25" 12tpi, and the uppers are 1" 14 tpi.

As far as the BC rock skis I still think they are a great product, on my first bronco I devastated the stock rockers with minor bumps, with the rock skis I have hit rocks so hard that my inertia switch tripped with no major damage. For someone who needs some bolt on protection or wants to cover up some damaged rockers they are great. They would also work well for someone who wants a little added security who doesn't plan on letting there rockers hit anything.
I just want something that can be drug over rocks without thinking about it.

I agree, they seem like a great product. Alot of the stuff I've collected is based on it's theory, and since it's never been assembled together, I don't always have a clear idea of how it will really work. I know it don't want to have a flimsy ski, and I don't want to make it any eaiser for the tub to rust.

Now, to figure out how to make a ski, tie it into the frame, and be able to tie in the cage later.

**Lars** · 05-01-2007, 07:52 PM

X2 on the 1/4" BC rock skis. I've dropped what seemed like the full weight of my Bronco down on them without much more than some scratches. That said, for a serious trail rig (mine's not) I'd cut out the rockers and use some rectangular tubing instead. Lots more clearance that way. I like what Brian Wickert did years ago, though I don't have a link to his pics anymore.

**720Racer** · 05-02-2007, 09:27 PM

Here's some of the rust on the fender skirts and kick panels.

Attached Files

**720Racer** · 05-02-2007, 09:30 PM

I cut up some old ramps a buddy gave me, and used the steel to brace the core support. Hopefully it will stay put while I replace the rusty panels.

Attached Files

**720Racer** · 05-02-2007, 09:31 PM

Lots of drilling, grinding, prying, and swearing later, here's the old panel out.

Attached Files

**720Racer** · 05-02-2007, 09:34 PM

Is POR-15 appropriate to use on the rust that's not being removed? I know I should paint something over that rust to stop it while I can. The inside of the door posts need something to make sure they don't get any worse.

Attached Files

**CityHick** · 05-03-2007, 05:50 AM

I don't have any personal experience with how POR holds up long-term but I really like how it applies to "seasoned" metal. Seems like it should hold up pretty well. Its not uv-tolerant so anywhere that may see the sun should get topcoated. I spent a good 30 minutes talking to a guy in a local paint shop about it. He said that people have good luck with POR, but there are better ways to treat rust if you don't mind applying many coats of different products. For my purposes, it seems to do the job decently well (so far anyway).

**720Racer** · 05-05-2007, 09:54 PM

After quite a bit of "fitting and trimming", I am happy with the floor pan. I also got the kick panel, fender skirt, and rocker panel mounted. Using a couple hundred sheet metal screws, everything seems to work together. I welded up all the holes from the rivets previously used to attach the floor pans and small patches. I also welded on a small strip that I trimmed off the floor board to hopefully stiffen where the passenger's toes will rest. Next I addressed the rust inside the door post. Scuffing pad and wire brush, to prep for paint.

Attached Files