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  • #1

    front suspension ideas

    ok, I'm thinking about trying to push my front end 6" before warm wheel'n season.

    here is what I've roughed out.

    My arms will be roughly 45" long, using my exsisting mounts.

    bulletproofsteering for my arms not the steering.
    The race edition comes out to $121 a stick
    the rock edition comes out to $151 a stick

    http://bulletproofsteering.com/tubingspecs.html

    Either one I would believe to be plenty strong for the application.

    remove my C's and use a ballistic fab bracket.

    http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ts_p_1184.html

    ballistic 2.63 joints top and bottom of the arm. with the upper link attached to the arm and bracket using heims.

    I would have to fabricate or buy a new track bar riser as the fram mount location will not change. I will run it on the rear side of the axle tube.



    i think using the ballistic joint on the lower connection will give me the side to side flex that bushing dont.


    I already have a 4x4 steering box (forward facing pitman arm)

    what do the guru's think?
    Last edited by TRAILBOUND; 12-27-2008, 10:34 AM.
    72' in pieces and piles of awesomeness
    Tags: None
  • #2
    If you run "Y" style arms on both sides, mounted with heims, ballistic joints, or any other sherical style end at all connections, it will bind when you articulate. Either use some bushings or only use the "Y" style arm on one side and just a single straight link on the other and it will flex nicely.
    Moving the axle 6" without moving the track bar will probably cause some clearance issues with the coils and diff., but you never know until you mock it up.
    69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

    Comment

    • #3
      x2 for the "y" on one side only. I have mine on the driver side only and get some serious flex without the bind. Just use some quality joints as they will see more stress.
      -Darin
      67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
      69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
      69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
      79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
      67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)

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      • #4
        ok so I should keep my same idea, but only run it on one side. Thants coo.

        What about that bullitproof tubing do you think its worth the expense. $240 for both sticks a total of almost 8 ft, already tap'd doesn't seem that outrages to me.
        72' in pieces and piles of awesomeness

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        • #5
          2"od- 1/2" wall is bullit proof.
          67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
          69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
          69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
          79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
          67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)

          Comment

          • #6
            I have that bullit proof system on my red bronco for the tie rod and bent it first trip out. For your arms use something beefy , you will have the weight of the bronco on them when your sliding over the rocks. I'm using heim's for the upper arm of the "y". It sees a lot of shock transfer back and forth and have gotten "noisey".
            -Darin
            67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
            69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
            69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
            79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
            67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by TRAILBOUND View Post
              What about that bullitproof tubing do you think its worth the expense. $240 for both sticks a total of almost 8 ft, already tap'd doesn't seem that outrages to me.
              I woud buy some 2.25" -.375 wall DOM and some weld in inserts for the two main tubes. It will cost about the same and be much stronger, plus you can make them to your exact length. The Bullit proof tubes won't take a 1.25" shaft from a heim or ballistic joint, and you don't want anything smaller.
              You could probably go smaller on the upper portion of the "Y", but I wouldn't go smaller than 1.75"-.120 wall DOM. The bottom tubes need to be much stronger since the whole weight of the bronco can slam them down onto a rock.
              If you do go forward 6" I would move your frame mounts forward to keep the links something less than 38". Any longer and there just going to drag on everything. Move the mounts under or slightly in side your frame so you can keep large tires from rubbing on the links.
              Last edited by highlander; 12-28-2008, 07:39 AM.
              69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

              Comment

              • #8
                Justin, here is what you should buy.

                http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=742077

                Comment

                • #9
                  that is a crap load more pipe then i need. Hell of a deal though. But....
                  Once i've got a list of materials and such, and the bronco fund has been replenished a little, I will have to check with our buddy on his dealer pricing for tubing, and Modesto has a huge steel place too.

                  But $437 for 23ft..... hmmmm........ I guess i could take it out of the boys Bday fund. He's only 1 he wont remember
                  72' in pieces and piles of awesomeness

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TRAILBOUND View Post
                    that is a crap load more pipe then i need. Hell of a deal though. But....
                    Once i've got a list of materials and such, and the bronco fund has been replenished a little, I will have to check with our buddy on his dealer pricing for tubing, and Modesto has a huge steel place too.

                    But $437 for 23ft..... hmmmm........ I guess i could take it out of the boys Bday fund. He's only 1 he wont remember
                    I think that I read somewhere in that thread that he will sell you just how many feet that you need.

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                    • #11
                      looks to me that he's got it all sold off
                      72' in pieces and piles of awesomeness

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                      • #12
                        well i started thinking wristed arm, and that made me start thinking about female body parts better known as jeeps. The long arm kits that they make for JK's are pretty much a wristed arm.

                        check out these arms

                        http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit

                        now that essentially is a wristed arm right, and if i did this would i still run just one arm? Darin do you run the y arm on the drivers side to eleviate track bar issues?

                        word on the street is that price of steel is going to plummit 1st of the year
                        72' in pieces and piles of awesomeness

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          I have Ironbender made wristed arms on my rig and have been thinking of going with long arms instead. Don't you have long arms on your rig?
                          Vacaville, Ca
                          67 EB - D44, BB 9" (4:56's), front discs, Wristed arm, 5.5" + 2" BL, 37" MTR's on Hellcats, 302/NP435/D20, Bilsteins, Mastercraft Rubicons w/4pt's

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            yes i do, I have wild horse arms with 2.63 balistic joints.

                            What i will be building are long wristed arms. But i would love to see some pics of your arms. And mine will probably be up for sale once i gather the material i need to build these.
                            72' in pieces and piles of awesomeness

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              My brackets were actually made for a y arm on each side and both will clear with no problem. I just didn't install the pass. side. Forget the wristed arm and keep it simple. My bronco will do the old sluice like a walk in the park with this setup. Those arms from Rusty's aren't wristed, just a lower link with a y arm.
                              -Darin
                              67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
                              69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
                              69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
                              79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
                              67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)

                              Comment

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