After reading many threads I am going to mount my 8 point family cage to the body only. I will sandwich the sheetmetal with a steel plate on the underside that is 1/4in bigger. For those of you that did this did you do all mounting points?
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Re: mounting cage
Originally posted by Broncrick View PostYES, and where I could I used 1" or bigger underneath'68- 302 C4 x D20, Dana 30 x 9" stock gears, 33" pavement pounders, 3-1/2" suspension lift 0 body lift, wishlist getting bigger, wallet getting smaller
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Re: mounting cage
I think there's a type there... Besides that, using thicker plate under the floor really wouldn't gain you anything. The main thing is to make the upper plate out of 1/4" and as big as you can within reason(ie: 4" x 6" plate would be good).SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.
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Re: mounting cage
Originally posted by CageDave View PostThe plating from underneath is to keep the cage from ripping out from the floor. The bigger the better on the plating. Thats more material that need to be ripped through the floor. Use grade 8 bolts. Mount at every point with a 4 bolts.KK6DAD
70 Miles to the Rubicon!
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Re: mounting cage
Originally posted by CageDave View PostThe plating from underneath is to keep the cage from ripping out from the floor. The bigger the better on the plating. Thats more material that need to be ripped through the floor. Use grade 8 bolts. Mount at every point with a 4 bolts.68 Slightly modified
67 LUBR once again
61 Willy Wagon
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Re: mounting cage
not knowing what that cage looks like I would guess install should go as follows:
put the cage in your rig
draw out hole locations in floor boards
remove cage
drill holes
crawl under rig and find out what size plate will work in each location
cut plate to size and drill holes to match cage
reinstall cage
mount with grade 8 bolts
'68- 302 C4 x D20, Dana 30 x 9" stock gears, 33" pavement pounders, 3-1/2" suspension lift 0 body lift, wishlist getting bigger, wallet getting smaller
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Re: mounting cage
Mine mounts to my sliders and sandwiches the entire door sill between the A and B pillars.1970 w/89 5.0, np 435/203/205, 456/locker/ARB, 4 wheel disc brakes w/hydroboost, 5.5" lift w/ext.radius arms, 3" bod lift, RS 9000's, tilt column, Hydro assist steering, 39.5" pitbull's on H1's. 4 link rear suspension. Hey brother, can you spare some change, I need parts....
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Re: mounting cage
I used heavy wall spacers between two 1/4" plates and 7/16" bolts. Cut everything so it's a tight fit but not enough to smash the floor brace. I also have frame tie-ins with poly bushings. Seems to work good but I haven't rolled my bronco to test it...SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.
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Re: mounting cage
One trick to mount the cage to the frame is to have cross pieces running across the floor over the body mounts. Then use longer bolts to secure the cage through the body mounts. It's possible to do this with the mounts behind the front seats and the ones near the tailgate.
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Re: mounting cage
that is what I'm playing with right now. the seat mount crossbar will have a pair of brackets tying into the factory body mounts, and then tie into the rear mounts, that way I only need to fabricate a pair of under body frame tie ins for a pillar
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