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  • DIY Granite Counters

    Hi all,

    I'm remodeling my kitchen and think I am going to give granite countertops a shot. Has anyone done it? Just looking for any helpful tips/ect.

    Thanks.
    CURRENT: D44 and 9" with open 3.50's, Atlas II, NV4500, stock suspension, 2" body lift, 31" tires. 93 Mustang 5.0 bored over and ported/polished.

    IN PROGESS: 3.5" suspension lift and CAGE arms.

    NEEDS: ARB's front and rear, and GEARS!

  • #2
    had granite installed about two years ago. alot of expensive diamond wheels for cutting,grinding and polishing involved to DIY I think...plus if they break it they bought it!!! alot of tricks of the trade goes with it to.. best left to the pros!!!
    72 sport/exp.,TBI 302,NP435,4.56 Powrlok/ARB in Full Width's.5.5" CAGE lift w/arms,2'' bl,37's, rescued from the concrete jungle (L.A.) NEVER DONE!!! Sold to buy a Boat, Now Broncoless.....Now it's fast water,smooth women and cold beer!! toad jeep owner now,,,,,, sorry

    ALL MY DRINKING BUDDIES HAVE A SEVERE BRONCO PROBLEM !!!


    Originally posted by 71BRONCO71
    BULLSHIT! I love your meat in my mouth
    RIP MARK BECK RIP MY FRIEND! RIP GIZMO,My little Buddy.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by TBS-POPS View Post
      had granite installed about two years ago. alot of expensive diamond wheels for cutting,grinding and polishing involved to DIY I think...plus if they break it they bought it!!! alot of tricks of the trade goes with it to.. best left to the pros!!!
      Yeah, thats what everybody tells me. I've never been one to walk away from a project though. I'm going to give it a shot.
      CURRENT: D44 and 9" with open 3.50's, Atlas II, NV4500, stock suspension, 2" body lift, 31" tires. 93 Mustang 5.0 bored over and ported/polished.

      IN PROGESS: 3.5" suspension lift and CAGE arms.

      NEEDS: ARB's front and rear, and GEARS!

      Comment


      • #4
        I like the granite tiles. Easy as regular tile to lay, plus looks awesome. What do-it-yourself granite are you referring to?
        “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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        • #5
          One of my co-workers did his kitchen last year. It was his first try doing countertops. He got a few price quotes, and figured out that he could buy the tools, and have enough $$$ left to buy 2x the granite needed (incase of breaks) for less than what he was quoted. Maybe the price has come down since the new home construction has slowed down so much, but it can't hurt to check the price of materials/tools vs. having it done.
          Good luck!
          Originally posted by 71BRONCO71 at Buck Island 6/25/11
          I can do that so much better myself..........1, 2, 3 GOODNIGHT!!!

          Comment


          • #6
            These are the guys I used for a project last year

            http://www.benchmarkss.com/

            There are a couple of ways that you can do it give them a measured drawing and they make all the cuts, cut outs and round overs and you install it wich works pretty well if you don't have anything loner than 8 feet. Anything longer and your looking at having to join the two slabs together. You can also have them do the whole thing.

            I think they ended up be $20.00(+/-) a square foot plus $5-$6.00 a lineal foot for the round over edge.

            They were the cheapest I could find even if I would have done the stuff myself.

            Brad
            Brad
            Chico, Ca.

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            • #7
              I bought prefab granite slabs when I did my kitchen 4 years ago. No complaints yet, its holding up great. I got mine at Superior Hardware in Oakland, and for a little more than the cost of the material they delivered and installed. Much less than buying a complete slab and having it bullnosed, etc...
              1970 Bronco
              My build thread

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              • #8
                I've ran the number a bunch of times and like most other things, I can buy the tools and materials and still be ahead of the game. It can't be that tough, right....

                I really don't like the tiles, so I'm going with slabs that already have the bullnose on them and are polished already. I'm going this route because I think it will minimize the amount of tools I have to buy and will keep me from having to polish anything. I can get them bullnosed on 1, 2, or 3 edges. So, heres my plan...

                I'm going to install 5/8" plywood (the good stuff, nice flat finish and 7-ply) over the entire kitchen cabinets. When I install it, I'm going to ensure everything is level in all directions and brace everything where it needs it so it is very solid.

                Then, I was going to use a wet saw (skill saw style that you hold) and cut the miters. I know that most professional installers do a small 2" miter and then cut perpendicular to the slab to save granite and not wast as much. But for me, I think I am going to just cut a 45-degree. I'll have plenty left over so this will not impact my costs.

                The sink is a self-rimming drop in. I was going to take my time with this and plunge cut it out with the wet saw and maybe work at it with a grinder/diamond blade.

                Once I get all my cuts done and test fit everything, I'll have to get ready to install. And, this is where some of my questions come in:

                1) Should I put down a moisture barrier between the plywood and the granite? If yes, what should I use (tar paper, plastic, that thick rubber stuff they use when tiling showers?)?
                2) Should I lay the slabs down on silicone, liquid nails?
                3) Now for the seams? I bought a knife grade epoxy from the granite shop. They don't have any pigments though (they have a very, very limited supply of stuff besides granite). Do you think pigments are neccesary? I read on the internet about some people using dust from the previous cuts.
                4) For the seams, I was also going to cut a groove down the middle of the slab. The guy at the granite shop reccomended this to give the epoxy more surface area to "grab." Whats your thoughts on this?

                I think that about covers my GRAND SCHEME. Whats your thoughts, am I going in the right direction? Thanks a million.
                CURRENT: D44 and 9" with open 3.50's, Atlas II, NV4500, stock suspension, 2" body lift, 31" tires. 93 Mustang 5.0 bored over and ported/polished.

                IN PROGESS: 3.5" suspension lift and CAGE arms.

                NEEDS: ARB's front and rear, and GEARS!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Mine was adhered with something like liquid nails. I don't know what they did the seams with but you can barely see them. The only butt seam was done at the sink. I would recommend an undermount sink. Mine's a self rimming sink and its ok but undermount is nicer. I did my underlayment with 5/8" ply but I'd do it with 1/2" next time - or go with a larger bullnose. Its not bad but I think having the bullnose hang below the ply rather than be even with it would be a little nicer. I do not remember there being a moisture barrier when they laid mine down. You do need to make sure the plywood surface is VERY level...
                  1970 Bronco
                  My build thread

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Like TN1776 said but stay with the 5/8". You definitely don't want any flex in your plywood under the granit. I thought about doing myself too but didn't trust my cuts to be straight. Ended up buying a slab and having it installed. Cost a bit more but it got done quick and the wife is happy.
                    67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
                    69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
                    69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
                    79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
                    67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)

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                    • #11
                      It just depends how picky you are. Go to Jensen and Clovis, or Manning Ave in Reedley just past the College a ways. They have all kinds of cheap granite slabs already bullnosed 1.5", on one or all three sides, in 2 x 8, 2 x 10's or even 3 x 7' (bull nosed on all four sides for a island).

                      I would cut the sink and stove in place on the counter. Less chance of breaking the counter while moving slab. No polishing with the top mounted sink, so definitely go that route for a DIY. 1/2" plywood is fine for the top, and use the same epoxy for the seams and underneath. Just put some globs of glue every 12". Place the slab and check for level. If off a little you can run a wood screw up from the bottom to lift it slightly.
                      Thanks,
                      Brian Wickert
                      Hanford, CA 93230

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by KingOf_Pain View Post
                        It just depends how picky you are. Go to Jensen and Clovis, or Manning Ave in Reedley just past the College a ways. They have all kinds of cheap granite slabs already bullnosed 1.5", on one or all three sides, in 2 x 8, 2 x 10's or even 3 x 7' (bull nosed on all four sides for a island).

                        I would cut the sink and stove in place on the counter. Less chance of breaking the counter while moving slab. No polishing with the top mounted sink, so definitely go that route for a DIY. 1/2" plywood is fine for the top, and use the same epoxy for the seams and underneath. Just put some globs of glue every 12". Place the slab and check for level. If off a little you can run a wood screw up from the bottom to lift it slightly.
                        Hey Brian,

                        Its like you have been following me around lately! The two places you mentioned is where I was planing on getting the granite. And, excellent point on cutting the sink out when the granite has been placed. I had some pretty elaborite ideas running through my head on how I was going to get it placed after the cutout. Sometime I miss the simple and obvious.

                        I've never used a wet saw before. Will it spray water everywhere when cutting in place? Reason I ask is I just finished painting the cabinets and walls!

                        Have you worked with granite in the past? Any suggestions on making the sink cutout? Can it be done with just a circular wet saw? I was planning on plunge cutting it and then cutting a bunch of slivers into the corners (1/8th inch wide or so). Then, tapping the slivers out. Any suggestions on this would be great.

                        Thanks a million!
                        CURRENT: D44 and 9" with open 3.50's, Atlas II, NV4500, stock suspension, 2" body lift, 31" tires. 93 Mustang 5.0 bored over and ported/polished.

                        IN PROGESS: 3.5" suspension lift and CAGE arms.

                        NEEDS: ARB's front and rear, and GEARS!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have a 4 1/2" wet cut circular saw, looks like a little skilsaw, that and abrasive hole saws would work for making the cut out. You could try dry cutting with an angle grinder but the stone may get too hot and crack or craze; besides making a ton of dust.

                          Brad
                          Brad
                          Chico, Ca.

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