wiring

[FLYINHIE]

I've slowly been adding more and more electrical components to my Bronco. I understand the fundamentals of wiring just fine. The problem I'm having is finding power sources. Up until now I've just been tapping into what ever power source I can find for example if I need a switched power source I've been tapping into the switched side of the coil or if I need a constant hot lead I've been tapping into whatever connection I can find that has constant hot and adding another tail off of that. THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT!! I know that! But up until now I've only added a few things and it hasn't been an issue. Now I'm adding more stuff and it's just turning into a mess of connections and I need to know the best way to get a hot lead off of the battery and a switched lead off of the ignition. My fuse box is maxed out so picking up a new terminal there isn't an option. Pictures help me a lot if you have any to post. I did purchase a new 4 gang fuse block which should help with the maxed out fuse block but still doesn't address my power source issue.
Signed, electricly challenged

[71BRONCO71]

Re: wiring

For a constant:

Run a large wire from the battery to where ever you want the source. (under the dash, under the hood). Use a 12v distribution block or bus bar.

Switched power:

Same idea as the constant but you need to add a 40amp relay switch inline with the battery and bus bar. Tap power off of the back of the key switch.
When the key is turned on, the relay will open up and allow power to run through the main wire coming off of the battery.

[FLYINHIE]

Re: wiring

For a constant:

Run a large wire from the battery to where ever you want the source. (under the dash, under the hood). Use a 12v distribution block or bus bar.

Switched power:

Same idea as the constant but you need to add a 40amp relay switch inline with the battery and bus bar. Tap power off of the back of the key switch.
When the key is turned on, the relay will open up and allow power to run through the main wire coming off of the battery.

I like the relay option. Good idea for the switched. Thanks.

[Fungus232]

Re: wiring

With a stellar suggestion from Tony "Cityhick" I picked up a couple of these from the junkyard. Early to mid '90s Taurus/ Sable fuse boxes, same rigs the 3G alts and good electric fans are in. They're on the driver's firewall just below the hood. Got these 2 FULL of fuses for around $8 each. One is on my pass firewall as a keyed 12V source and the other on the inner fender behind the battery as a HOT 12V source. Cleaned stuff up real nice and gives plenty of fused connections for whatever you want to run.

[71BRONCO71]

Re: wiring

With a stellar suggestion from Tony "Cityhick" I picked up a couple of these from the junkyard. Early to mid '90s Taurus/ Sable fuse boxes, same rigs the 3G alts and good electric fans are in. They're on the driver's firewall just below the hood. Got these 2 FULL of fuses for around $8 each. One is on my pass firewall as a keyed 12V source and the other on the inner fender behind the battery as a HOT 12V source. Cleaned stuff up real nice and gives plenty of fused connections for whatever you want to run.

Take my idea, and throw those Taurus fuse boxes on the end and you're good to go.

[FLYINHIE]

Re: wiring

With a stellar suggestion from Tony "Cityhick" I picked up a couple of these from the junkyard. Early to mid '90s Taurus/ Sable fuse boxes, same rigs the 3G alts and good electric fans are in. They're on the driver's firewall just below the hood. Got these 2 FULL of fuses for around $8 each. One is on my pass firewall as a keyed 12V source and the other on the inner fender behind the battery as a HOT 12V source. Cleaned stuff up real nice and gives plenty of fused connections for whatever you want to run.

It looks like you have a single hot lead that screws into the side which runs power through your fuses and finely to your components?
The one thing I didn't like about the small aux fuse block that I picked up, is that I had to run seperate hot leads to each circuit. I was looking for what you have. One single hot going in to the fuses and multiple outputs.
Nice and cheap too. Thanks, I know what I need to do now. Just needed some inspiration.

[Fungus232]

Re: wiring

Yep, they've got a huge main power lug on the end of the box (notice lug on left side in pic 1). One power in and it electrifies all the circuits in the box (as long as there's a fuse in the slot). For circuits not being used just pull the fuse.

[CityHick]

Re: wiring

Those Taurus fuse blocks are great... and I can't take all the credit as my dad was the one who discovered these junkyard bargains for his projects. The Sables usually had fully populated blocks where the Tauruses usually had a few blanks. The good news is the junkyards always have these cars

Mine's not triggered off the ignition... its always hot and the few things I run off of it are switched downstream. This has its advantages (like I have an always hot, switched run specifically for my ARB fridge, and another for my stereo, etc). I will add a second switched block one day and redo some of my wiring.

A quick hint... if you grab one or two of these, take the extra time to fish the attached wiring harness out, leaving the leads as long as possible. It's a little more effort but you can usually get several feet of factory wiring along with it. My first block (and the one I still run) I was lazy and cut the wires off pretty short. While there's nothing wrong with soldering to splice new wire on, its a lot cleaner to have a uniform wire all the way from your accessory back to the block. Grab the mounting bracket too...

[FLYINHIE]

Re: wiring

I will add a second switched block one day and redo some of my wiring.

My day has come.

[welndmn]

Re: wiring

I think the biggest tip I can offer is read up on your loads and what wire sizes you need, add about 20% for the future. I just always laugh when I see some 2 or 4 Gage cable going through the firewall, something that large is just not needed.

I like the look of cloth braid covering, I think the plastic split loom stuff looks like crap. Don't me wrong, I've got plastic split loom on my rig as well, it's just not been changed over. The cloth braid also stands up to heat better.
Don't tap anything off your ignition coil except a tach or maybe a cut off switch.
The fuses that light up when blown are freaking awesome!
You can use a spare starter solenoid instead of a relay to power your distribution block. I do this so I only need one spare or can quickly rewire things if I need that solenoid to start my truck.
Running wires in steel brake of fuel line makes everything look clean and hidden.
The 100$ weather pack tools by FAR out perform the cheap ones you can buy at the parts store.

[FLYINHIE]

Re: wiring

For a constant:

Run a large wire from the battery to where ever you want the source. (under the dash, under the hood). Use a 12v distribution block or bus bar.

Switched power:

Same idea as the constant but you need to add a 40amp relay switch inline with the battery and bus bar. Tap power off of the back of the key switch.
When the key is turned on, the relay will open up and allow power to run through the main wire coming off of the battery.

What size power lead would I use through that relay to my fuse block?

[FLYINHIE]

Re: wiring

With a stellar suggestion from Tony "Cityhick" I picked up a couple of these from the junkyard. Early to mid '90s Taurus/ Sable fuse boxes, same rigs the 3G alts and good electric fans are in. They're on the driver's firewall just below the hood. Got these 2 FULL of fuses for around $8 each. One is on my pass firewall as a keyed 12V source and the other on the inner fender behind the battery as a HOT 12V source. Cleaned stuff up real nice and gives plenty of fused connections for whatever you want to run.

Think I'm done with P N P. I picked up two of the same fuse blocks and they WHERE NOT $8.00 each. I already had em out and don't have all day to drive around looking for the $8.00 value so I ate it. $22.00 bucks each. I just can't win sometimes. I did manage to fill my pockets with extra fuses though. COCKSUCKERS!!!!!

[71BRONCO71]

Re: wiring

Think I'm done with P N P. I picked up two of the same fuse blocks and they WHERE NOT $8.00 each. I already had em out and don't have all day to drive around looking for the $8.00 value so I ate it. $22.00 bucks each. I just can't win sometimes. I did manage to fill my pockets with extra fuses though. COCKSUCKERS!!!!!

That's still a good price

[CityHick]

Re: wiring

What size power lead would I use through that relay to my fuse block?

Figure out what you're going to connect and calculate the maximum current load and go from there. Mine's inline with my starter cable (can explain with pix later if you want) so it's big starter cable from the battery to that stud then from the stud down to the starter. It works...

Think I'm done with P N P. I picked up two of the same fuse blocks and they WHERE NOT $8.00 each. I already had em out and don't have all day to drive around looking for the $8.00 value so I ate it. $22.00 bucks each. I just can't win sometimes. I did manage to fill my pockets with extra fuses though. COCKSUCKERS!!!!!

PNP prices vary so freakin much and I think they've trended up a bit lately. I miss Pick your Part in Hayward, they seemed better, at least back in the day.

That's still a good price

Yup

[FLYINHIE]

Re: wiring

Figure out what you're going to connect and calculate the maximum current load and go from there.

No, I understand the amount of load dictates your wire guage and I'm figuring on a #8 power lead to the relay. I'm having trouble wrapping my head around a #8 wire running through a small blade connector at the relay. Even though it's rated for 40A it just doesn't look right. Looks like those blade connectors wouldn't be able to handle any amps. That's why I was asking.
And as far as the price goes I was hoping for around $10.00 a piece not 23. But yes still within reason. That's why I didn't leave them on the counter.