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4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

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  • 4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

    I've got a couple pitman arms laying around and I'm wondering what, if any difference the pitman arm makes. I totally understand the longer it is the longer the fulcrum..........blah blah blah. I guess I'm wondering what you guys have on your 4x4x2 box? The one on there now is damn near straight and about 6 1/2" long from Center line to center line. I had another one on there that was shorter and had a slight drop to it. Helped my angles but didn't quite fit the sector shaft splines. Couldn't tighten it up all the way. I am in the process of tweaking my front end geometry AGAIN and need to make another drag link or another tie rod. The pitman arm I use is going to greatly affect which one I re-make.
    Right now I have about a 6 1/2" difference between my drag link length and my trac bar length. I would like to close that length down by re-making my tie rod but need the final pitman arm to get good measurments. For those that are wondering, my tie rod has a strap welded to it for the drag link to tie into. I can move that strap where ever I want along the length of the tie rod but once it's welded it's a done deal.
    sigpic68' 351W ,Nothing stock except transfer case:

  • #2
    Re: 4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

    The length of arm needed will be directly related the the length of the arm on the knuckle to ensure you are getting max turning angle. If the steering arm is longer than the pitman arm, you may not be turning all the way that you can.

    What is the rest of a your set up?

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    • #3
      Re: 4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

      Uhh????? What part of my setup are you referring to? And what "steering arm"?
      Drag link? Tie rod? I see what you are saying but don't understand how my drag link or tie rod lengths make a difference. I do agree about the length of the pitman arm though dictating whether I'm getting complete stop to stop turning. I'm using FW Dana 44 stock knuckles.
      sigpic68' 351W ,Nothing stock except transfer case:

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      • #4
        Re: 4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

        The steering arm at the knuckle. The set up I'm talking about is hi steer vs factory knuckle steering arm, etc.

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        • #5
          Re: 4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

          What's he is saying is if you swap to a shorter pitman arm you may not be getting the full turning radius anymore as the longer the pitman arm, the longer the arc it swings in.
          Mark Harris
          71 Bronco, 9 inch, 60, c4, Stak 3 speed, and 42 inch balloons.

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          • #6
            Re: 4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

            Another issue that crops up with this conversion is that the longer arms will sometimes hit the tie rod when stuffing the driver's side.
            Is your box set up far enough forward that this won't be a problem? If not sure, at least that is one more aspect to look out for.

            Paul
            Wild Horses 4-Wheel Drive
            www.wildhorses4x4.com

            71 U15 3.5" WH lift, Hanson rear, cut w/33" Swamper Thornbirds
            68 U15 2.5" WH lift, Hanson front, uncut w/31 BFG Explorer engine/trans

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            • #7
              Re: 4x4x2 pitman arm/front end geometry

              Originally posted by welndmn View Post
              What's he is saying is if you swap to a shorter pitman arm you may not be getting the full turning radius anymore as the longer the pitman arm, the longer the arc it swings in.
              I understood that. Wasn't sure what steering arms he was talking about. Now I know. I'm using the stock steering arms. No aftermarket high steer.
              I was more or less trying to find out what is working for everyone else's 4x4x2 steering box conversion. Stock pitman arm or something else?
              sigpic68' 351W ,Nothing stock except transfer case:

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