I have looked for specs on tightness of the nut at the frame on my radius arms. I'm thinking I migt have them too tight. It would make sense to me that if they we're too tight it would inhibit the flex. What are you guys uesing as a guideline?
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Re: radius arms
If you're worried about flex, then you can try the angled bushings to relieve some stress.
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...ut_Arm_Bushing
The stock radius arms don't flex a whole lot anyway.
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Re: radius arms
Ok, Thanks. I've been out of the loop for over 10 years and see all these rigs with great flex. Guess that's next after I break or wear out this batch of parts.
There's nothing wrong with being and old dude/old school. I do have a cassette deck now.
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Re: radius arms
oh it's all right Wade we'll getcha caught up. That's also what's nice about get togethers, you get to see what other guys are running.
There is a thread on here somewhere about home made long arms. Just a nice long piece of 2" 3/16 DOM with 10* bend (if I recall). Then a simple bung and 1.25 heim and bam DIY long arms. I might even have a set of stock arms at the DDR you can cut up if you wanna give that route a go. If your more of a wheeler and got $800 to spare Cage/Duff arms are the tried and trued best arms around.
Justin can't remember his screen name used Rubicon Express Y arms and his rig flexed up great.72' in pieces and piles of awesomeness
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Re: radius arms
Cage/Duff style arms are also available from bloody knuckle garage but still near the $800 price point. They are very nice and once in a great while you can find a set of them used like I did, for a little savings.
They are heavy duty and take a decent beating. The caster correction and improved ride quality they provide is incredible, plus they do allow a bit more travel. Or go totally custom and design/build a link setup. A work buddy did that on his FJ80 Land Cruiser recently and he gets really good flex compared to the radius arm setup that came stock on his rig.1970 Bronco
My build thread
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Re: radius arms
You pretty much need to go at least 2° simply because a zero offset bushing is only available in stock rubber style with no side flanges. And those don't like getting twisted up and bounced around much before they literally spit out the side of the cap.
If the caps themselves have retaining shoulders, then that's not an issue. But if they're like most other arms/caps, go with poly and settle for the 2°
But the BEST way is always to measure your existing caster if the rig is still currently on the road and can be run down to an alignment shop. That way once you find out how much is built in to the arms, you can fine-tune it with the bushings.
And it's going to depend just as much on how much lift you're planning as how much caster is built into your axle and the new arms.
Gotta know what you got to know what you need sometimes.
Or guess...
PaulWild Horses 4-Wheel Drive
www.wildhorses4x4.com
71 U15 3.5" WH lift, Hanson rear, cut w/33" Swamper Thornbirds
68 U15 2.5" WH lift, Hanson front, uncut w/31 BFG Explorer engine/trans
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Re: radius arms
If it's still on the road I'd put a set of stock bushings in it and then have the Castor measured. Then no guessing about what the castor offset of the bushings really is.
Then, and this is a big project, cut the C's loose and turn them to the proper caster setting before welding them back on. That way the truck will go down the road very nicely and your pinion angle is also correct. I bought all of this already done so I've only an idea of just how much work this is, but I can say that it's comfortable two-finger steering at 75 on the freeway.Cross-threaded is tighter than lock-tite
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