9" Yoke question

[Dennis]

Last time out on Fordyce (Four years ago, but that's another story) wheel hop got the best of me and I twisted an ear of my yoke. I don't think there is anything special about my third member and I don't think I'd have a "Daytona" style yoke. What's the best way to tell the difference. Everything is still installed. Can I tell from just looking at it? I see the "Daytona" styles just use a spacer. The standard style uses a crush sleeve. Is this something that can just be swapped out or is it housing specific? Looking on Currie's site there are a bunch of options. I'd like to have all my parts on hand before I start. Is it just a matter of popping the old one off and bolting the new one in? What else should I replace while I'm in there? Seals, crush sleeve, yoke nut?

Is there any reason NOT to take this opportunity to upgrade to 1350's? I'll be sending my driveline in anyways.

[DirtDonk]

Re: 9" Yoke question

I've always liked the idea of upgrading to the 1330's if you're replacing stuff for other reasons. But I do seem to remember that during testing in a magazine years ago the 1330 had a lower angle before binding than either the 1310's OR the 1350's did. Maybe someone can confirm that?

Of course, you could go straight to the 1350 too, if there's a matching yoke for the t-case end. Or flange style yokes might be more versatile still. If you wheel hard and want the best angle I believe the High-Angle shafts use flange style joints.

Then again, there's always the school of thought that says it's better to have a busted u-joint or shaft than it is to have a busted yoke, diff part, or axle!
That's what's kept me from upgrading some things in the past. Because it can be a vicious pyramid of upgrades. A one thing leads to another kind of thing.

What messed up your old one? Was it torque, or an impact with a rock?

Paul

[pippinmader]

Re: 9" Yoke question

You don't have a Daytona pinion housing (Daytona is flat, yours has the raised sections where bolts are).

[CityHick]

Re: 9" Yoke question

Yep not a Daytona housing. As for the crush sleeve vs spacer replacement... its not a simple matter of replacing without checking your specs again. I would get two new crush sleeves (because chances are very high you will over-crush the first one), an inch pound torque wrench and a big cheater bar, and get busy setting up the pinion housing all over again. It's not that bad to do, but you need proper backlash and preload. I suppose you could remove the crush sleeve and get a solid spacer that measures the same as the old crush sleeve... but I am old school and would prefer simply crushing a new sleeve in there.

[Dennis]

Re: 9" Yoke question

I was bouncing a bit trying to climb something, at not much more than an idle I might add. My tires grabbed traction and the leaf springs wrapped up so far that the extreme angle and driveshaft torque snapped the ear off the yoke. It flipped a shackle and left me with the pinion sticking almost straight up. Easy enough to get out of. But only having front wheel drive dead lined me for the trip. So I limped back to my trailer, came home and parked it. I haven't had the time or gumption to fix it or to go wheelin. But it needs to be fixed and I hoping we might actually get some snow this winter to go playing in.

[ntsqd]

Re: 9" Yoke question

Just flat towing my fiberglass dune buggy with my '67 Ranchero caused the nearly new crush sleeve in the 8" (same p/n as the 9" part) to crush further. Since then it's been solid spacers only for me. My preference is one that is too long and to use a surface grinder to slowly walk it down to the right pre-load on the bearings, but I've done it with the short version & shims too. It's a bit more fiddly than the crush sleeve, but when you're done you know that it will never crush further and should you need to you can loosen the pinion nut to replace the pinion seal without having to go through setting up a new crush sleeve as well. Just remove the yoke, R&R the seal, and re-torque the yoke - no worries.

The crush sleeve is a mass production driven part. I don't think that they have any place in anything done custom.

[welndmn]

Re: 9" Yoke question

If you still have a stock output shaft, I would not swap on an 1350 yoke, or now would be the time to grab an HD yoke and do a full 1350 driveshaft.

[Dennis]

Re: 9" Yoke question

If you still have a stock output shaft, I would not swap on an 1350 yoke, or now would be the time to grab an HD yoke and do a full 1350 driveshaft.

I have a HD output shaft from Wild Horses. I was one of the first to get one. I've always tried to upgrade when I break something. But I didn't fix my axle wrap problem when I took out my original output shaft. Now that's comeback to haunt me. I still have the double joints at the tc. Should I upgrade the yoke to the 1350's

Just remove the yoke, R&R the seal, and re-torque the yoke - no worries.

This is what I was hoping to do.

[ntsqd]

Re: 9" Yoke question

snip.....
This is what I was hoping to do.

With a crush sleeve it has been done, but it's real iffy getting the pre-load correct again w/o replacing the crush sleeve.
With a solid spacer there's no iffiness involved at all. Even if you have to replace the yoke itself for some reason.

[welndmn]

Re: 9" Yoke question

You're set then! Call just high angle driveline and get a flange yoke for the t case along with a 1350 Cv and new 9" yoke.

[Efibroncoman]

Re: 9" Yoke question

When you go to a solid spacer you use shims and the spacer to get the correct pinion preload. It is much easier to pull the pinion carrier out and do that on a workbench with a vise. You can measure the crush sleeve and start there but will probably have to try a couple times to get the shim pack right. You want to see 15 in.lbs. or rotating torque with a dial torque wrench with just the pinion. 20 with the 3rd member assembled.