FiTech no start

[DirtDonk]

Re: FiTech no start

Why change the ignition at all? Keep the resistor wire (or ballast resistor if that's what you're using) for the Mallory and run 12v off of a separate circuit to all the computer stuff. You should be doing that anyway I would think, rather than using the same circuit to do all duties. Especially if this is all original Bronco wiring.
Is that how it's run, or do you have all new chassis wiring too?
What about the FiTech unit? Is it the 400 or the 600? If 600, is it controlling the ignition? I'm thinking not, since I don't think it's compatible with a Unilite, but I could be wrong on that point.

Good luck.

Paul

[Muddy]

Re: FiTech no start

What I got from the conversation was that issue lies from the tach signal which is being fed by an underpowered coil. The unit is being powered directly from the battery, so that shouldn't be an issue. I have some plans to tear into it this weekend. I'll let you guys know.

[Muddy]

Re: FiTech no start

Still no luck. My ignition is now running a full 12v and is being powered by its own circuit. Still have the same issue will start and run great after I reset the ecm. Once it warms up and I attempt restart, it just briefly fires then dies. I'm running the 400 unit with no timing control. I've checked and double checked all my wiring. Totally stumped. Going to give tech support another call.

[E.B.]

Re: FiTech no start

Hi Muddy,
I have been running the speedway motor hei unit for 3 years and it has given me no problems.works good.
did you get the fitech efi system to work? hope so,good luck.i was thinking of installing it on my 302/71 bronco.should i?
thanks Everett
ps hope this went to you,its my first reply

[Muddy]

Re: FiTech no start

Not yet. I fixed the 12 volt ignition issue but my problem remains.

[DirtDonk]

Re: FiTech no start

Why not just run the Mallory off of the resistor and the FiTech off of a full power source?
Or is this something to do with it reading a signal to control timing? If not, I don't see any reason to not keep the Mallory that's been so reliable and find a better source of power for the FiTech system.
Shouldn't be running too many things off of an ignition circuit anyway. Takes too much away from both.

Paul

[Muddy]

Re: FiTech no start

I ended up keeping the mallory and putting a Petronix module in it. I ran a full 12 volts through a relay to the ignition. The unit has always been powered directly from the battery and another switched 12 volt source. The only thing that is tied to the ignition is the tach signal wire. Now all the voltage is correct per FiTech. Now I'm wondering if I have a bad sensor or a software issue? Don't think I have a vacuum leak because it runs fine at first but then will not restart. I could be wrong though. I ran a ground wire from the TB to the manifold for good measure. My work schedule makes it really hard for me to contact tech support, so it's taking me a while to correct this. Hoping it will end up being something simple.

[DirtDonk]

Re: FiTech no start

Sorry, I missed the previous comment where you said you were running them separately already. But now that you've got 12v to everything, the whole low voltage thing seems moot.
Yeah, hopefully they can help you narrow it down or try a new bit of software or controller for you.

Will it run at all with you feathering the throttle? Or does it just die with no amount of fiddling to keep it running?
Just wondering, since if it's just it's own inability to idle, maybe it's the idle control solenoid/valve? You mentioned sensors, which made me think of that. Wouldn't think that an O2 or even a faulty throttle position sensor would make it do this, but there are still a TON of things about modern fuel injection I don't know about.

Good luck. Hopefully they have something to add.

Paul

[DirtDonk]

Re: FiTech no start

And hey back at you Everett! Welcome to NorCalBroncos and thanks for joining in the discussion.
Looks like you've been a lurker for awhile. Glad you chimed in.

Paul

[E.B.]

Re: FiTech no start

Hi there Paul(DirtDonk),
I met you at the last stamped at wild horses .we walk around the yard looking at a few broncos with the 5.0 explorer swaps.
I put a 93 mustang motor with the explorer serp belt, cover,pump,pulleys,etc. got the idler and brackets from you.all works good.thanks for all your help.Its finally running again.
I do not use the computer much and i heard the site had some problems for awhile.they sent me an e-mail saying it was fixed,so i thought i would try.
Hope muddy gets that FiTech system working,I seen it on Summit web site and would love to put it on mine also,get away from the carb. I am going to start looking into the FiTech system for mine and see what its all about,how it works.
Muddy have you tryed using the web site?send them an e-mail with the problem. I have been running the hei system on mine .got it from speedway motors.only draw back is the cap is very big,hits the heater hose 90 fitting ,had to grind it down.other than that its great.
Thanks you guys,hope FiTech can help.
Everett

[71BRONCO71]

Re: FiTech no start

Update: Tech support told me that I cannot run a ballast resister. Their system requires a full 12 volts to function properly. My Unilite requires one, so the module will not burn out. Kind of a bummer I've had that Mallory for years and it's never let me down. Any suggestions for distributors that won't break the bank or suggestions to make this work? I read that if I get an ignition box I can eliminate the ballast resister but I hate to blow money on a chance.

I run a stock dizzy with a petronix kit inside of it.

Duraspark with a GM HEI module. Factory parts available at any parts store.
On the Rubicon, Ryan mentioned putting the temp sensor in a cooler part of the intake manifold so that it didn't read an overheat condition. If it gets too hot the computer shuts everything down.

True. But that other guy that kept overheating was because of the placement of that all in one fuel system. vapor lock.

What I got from the conversation was that issue lies from the tach signal which is being fed by an underpowered coil. The unit is being powered directly from the battery, so that shouldn't be an issue. I have some plans to tear into it this weekend. I'll let you guys know.

What wire in the fitech harness is going to your coil?