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  • Striker post screws rusted in place

    I’ve tried soaking the backside in Liquid Wrench for a day, tried and impact socket, tried a propane torch and no luck. I tried to drill out a screw but it ate up my bit. In the process I found a small rust hole. I’m planning to cut out the striker and welding some new sheet metal. Any advice?
    1970 Bronco 302 np435 3.5 lift 33s disc brakes ford 9 w Yukon locker

  • #2
    Re: Striker post screws rusted in place

    Did you try an impact driver... You know the spring loaded gizmo you wack with a hammer to loosen the screws?
    2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
    1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
    2016 Race Red Shelby GT350

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    • #3
      Re: Striker post screws rusted in place

      Not yet, going to borrow one from a coworker
      1970 Bronco 302 np435 3.5 lift 33s disc brakes ford 9 w Yukon locker

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      • #4
        Re: Striker post screws rusted in place

        Tried it and it did not work
        1970 Bronco 302 np435 3.5 lift 33s disc brakes ford 9 w Yukon locker

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        • #5
          Re: Striker post screws rusted in place

          You are left with drilling out the bolts, buy good drill bits, start small and work you way up, use lubricant constantly while drilling
          2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
          1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
          2016 Race Red Shelby GT350

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          • #6
            Re: Striker post screws rusted in place

            If surrounding paint is not a concern heat the screw heads up until they glow red, if you can get to the back where the threads are exposed, add a small amount of oil to cool them down. Once they are cool try again to remove them. If the screw heads are stripping you can also weld a nut to the screw head.
            69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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            • #7
              Re: Striker post screws rusted in place

              Heated the heck out of the bolts and banged with the impact driver. One out and the other half way out. Will go at it again tomorrow
              1970 Bronco 302 np435 3.5 lift 33s disc brakes ford 9 w Yukon locker

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              • #8
                Re: Striker post screws rusted in place

                They make a tool that attaches to an air chisel that is supposed to work in these situations. I bought one but have never used it.
                Your welcome to borrow it and give it a try. (707) 975-5757 if your interested

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                • #9
                  I went thru this recently with every bolt and screw while disassembling my dad's 73. I ended up buying a box of 3/8 nuts and just welding the nuts to the bolts and screws from the center. Worked a charm. Did this with nearly every screw and bolt from dash bolts and striker bolts to hinge bolts and the Phillips screws that hold the fender in the front of the door jam.

                  -Izzy

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                  • #10
                    I just noticed this is an old thread, sorry for the late reply.

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                    • #11
                      No problem. Sounds like you had a good solution, so thanks for sharing it.
                      I'm guessing the big heat would have helped even more, but being able to grab something by the nut is a good thing. A double-whammy for the screw.

                      So far I've been successful with the old hammer-time impact drivers mentioned previously.
                      Hopefully I don't have to do too many more!

                      Paul
                      Wild Horses 4-Wheel Drive
                      www.wildhorses4x4.com

                      71 U15 3.5" WH lift, Hanson rear, cut w/33" Swamper Thornbirds
                      68 U15 2.5" WH lift, Hanson front, uncut w/31 BFG Explorer engine/trans

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                      • #12
                        I bought the hammer impact screw driver, but after a few good wallops I stated to fear that I would warp something beyond repairable condition, this is the reason I resorted to welding nuts.

                        That and the fact that I started stripping the heads of the screws and there wasn't much left to bite on. Double whammy for me and the screws I guess

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                        • #13
                          I was able to get the upper two bolts out with a combo of heat and impact driver. The bottom one was seized good. I continued the driver only to find that the area around the bolt was pretty rusty. At what point do I live with some rust or replace the door post? I hit several areas with a pick and it seems “solid” with the exception of the area around the lower hinge.
                          1970 Bronco 302 np435 3.5 lift 33s disc brakes ford 9 w Yukon locker

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                          • #14
                            I need to see a picture, trying to figure out what 3 bolts you're talking about. I have a hammered up passenger side striker post that I tacked in and beat on and cut out and tacked in and beat on and cut out and tacked in and beat on one too many times so, I started with a fresh one that fits perfect.
                            Brad
                            Chico, Ca.

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                            • #15
                              Well, if you are like me, if there is anything questionable about the panel it is getting replaced. these things are like legs, easy to tear down and just as easy to build back up. its only $$ right? and time.

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