I’ve tried soaking the backside in Liquid Wrench for a day, tried and impact socket, tried a propane torch and no luck. I tried to drill out a screw but it ate up my bit. In the process I found a small rust hole. I’m planning to cut out the striker and welding some new sheet metal. Any advice?
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Striker post screws rusted in place
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Re: Striker post screws rusted in place
Did you try an impact driver... You know the spring loaded gizmo you wack with a hammer to loosen the screws?2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350
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Re: Striker post screws rusted in place
You are left with drilling out the bolts, buy good drill bits, start small and work you way up, use lubricant constantly while drilling2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350
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Re: Striker post screws rusted in place
If surrounding paint is not a concern heat the screw heads up until they glow red, if you can get to the back where the threads are exposed, add a small amount of oil to cool them down. Once they are cool try again to remove them. If the screw heads are stripping you can also weld a nut to the screw head.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link
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I went thru this recently with every bolt and screw while disassembling my dad's 73. I ended up buying a box of 3/8 nuts and just welding the nuts to the bolts and screws from the center. Worked a charm. Did this with nearly every screw and bolt from dash bolts and striker bolts to hinge bolts and the Phillips screws that hold the fender in the front of the door jam.
-Izzy
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No problem. Sounds like you had a good solution, so thanks for sharing it.
I'm guessing the big heat would have helped even more, but being able to grab something by the nut is a good thing. A double-whammy for the screw.
So far I've been successful with the old hammer-time impact drivers mentioned previously.
Hopefully I don't have to do too many more!
PaulWild Horses 4-Wheel Drive
www.wildhorses4x4.com
71 U15 3.5" WH lift, Hanson rear, cut w/33" Swamper Thornbirds
68 U15 2.5" WH lift, Hanson front, uncut w/31 BFG Explorer engine/trans
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I bought the hammer impact screw driver, but after a few good wallops I stated to fear that I would warp something beyond repairable condition, this is the reason I resorted to welding nuts.
That and the fact that I started stripping the heads of the screws and there wasn't much left to bite on. Double whammy for me and the screws I guess
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I was able to get the upper two bolts out with a combo of heat and impact driver. The bottom one was seized good. I continued the driver only to find that the area around the bolt was pretty rusty. At what point do I live with some rust or replace the door post? I hit several areas with a pick and it seems “solid” with the exception of the area around the lower hinge.1970 Bronco 302 np435 3.5 lift 33s disc brakes ford 9 w Yukon locker
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I need to see a picture, trying to figure out what 3 bolts you're talking about. I have a hammered up passenger side striker post that I tacked in and beat on and cut out and tacked in and beat on and cut out and tacked in and beat on one too many times so, I started with a fresh one that fits perfect.Brad
Chico, Ca.
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