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  • Hp44

    I might have a line on a HP44 housing. What are the couple years you want to stay away from that had the cast wedges vs the weld on ones?

  • #2
    78 and 79 have the case wedges. Now having said that, I have seen an early 78 that had welded wedges, so don't go by just the year. Always go look at it to confirm. The cast wedges are easy to spot. Let us now what you find out.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info. The guy said it was the more desireable one with the welded on wedges, but he also said it was a 78. Thats what had me confused. I thought I had read somewhere, maybe on CB, that some of the 78's had cast and some were welded. So like you say it pays to check it out first hand.

      How much do you think a bare housing is worth? $50-$75?

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      • #4
        I would say it would be worth more like $100 to $200, so if you can get it for under $100, grab it for sure!

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        • #5
          The guy mentioned it would probably be $100 or less since you can get them at pick and pull for $50. Don't know how true that is since I have never priced one there. I'll see what happens in the next few days.

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          • #6
            The one you really want is the 77' out of a supercab 150.
            It was leaf sprung so the perches come off really easy. I have one and a matching 9in. in the for sale section.
            I also have a narrowed 79' with cast wedges I'll let go for a $100 Everything but the knuckles.
            70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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            • #7
              SO, I take there are guys out there breaking or cracking the cast wedges? What are the problems?
              70 EB, Frame up project, NP 435/203/205, FW hp d44, fw 9", EFI 302, Crab cage, Hanson front and rear

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              • #8
                Originally posted by FordCore
                SO, I take there are guys out there breaking or cracking the cast wedges? What are the problems?

                You can't cut off the cast wedges to move them in to be the proper width for our EB's. Now there are people who have just mounted them and left the cast wedges where they are and they seem to work just fine. It is a pain in the a@ss to get the rear or the radius arms to come in far enough to mount up to the EB frame, but again, it has been done. Another thing that will happen is your front coil springs will have major bows in them because the cast wedges are out wider. It doesn't seem to affect the way they work, just looks funny. IMHO.

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                • #9
                  help me out here...what are you going to do with the HP44? Full width? Shorten it?

                  Here's the scoop. Either way, you shouldn't worry about the wedges. THe short side doesn't change for either set-ups. THe long side, if you are cutting it down is shortened 6 inches from the inside section of the tube, thus bringing the wedge in as well. If you are planning of full width, you cant move the wedge in anyway...the pupkin doesn't allow for enogh movement. The right way to full width is to leave the wedges where they are, get longer radius arms with the heims (duff) or make your own (like I did) and run them at a wider stance. The only downfall is that you cannot use long tube headers as the center section is farther to the left and right in the way. Your driveline will also be at an angle which is no issue.

                  But please, let us know your plans.
                  “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                  • #10
                    I'm going with longer arms with the heims and full width, I was just concerned with the sring perches being out to far, pulling the bottom of the springs out. What are guys doing to solve that issue. I was gonna try and fab something up when its time.
                    Chris
                    Last edited by FordCore; 08-17-2005, 06:01 PM.
                    70 EB, Frame up project, NP 435/203/205, FW hp d44, fw 9", EFI 302, Crab cage, Hanson front and rear

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by FordCore
                      I'm going with longer arms with the heims and full width, I was just concerned with the sring perches being out to far, pulling the bottom of the springs out. What are guys doing to solve that issue. I was gonna try and fab something up when its time.
                      Chris
                      Flip the lower spring cup around. get's it close enough
                      “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                      • #12
                        I was going to pick it up and build it over time. I am going to have it shortened to EB width so I can continue to use my Warn shafts. I was also going to have the knuckles turned to improve my caster and help with the driveshaft angle, though just having the HP might help enough with the angle.

                        Sounded like I was going to be able to take everything off my current 44 except the gears and transfer it over to this axle. I do have the duff arms and some shorty headers so if I were to keep it full width that wouldn't be a problem. Though full width won't fit in my 3rd car garage I don't think.

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                        • #13
                          Ah ya Good idea, I didn't think about the holes they are off set a bit.
                          70 EB, Frame up project, NP 435/203/205, FW hp d44, fw 9", EFI 302, Crab cage, Hanson front and rear

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Howdy
                            I was going to pick it up and build it over time. I am going to have it shortened to EB width so I can continue to use my Warn shafts. I was also going to have the knuckles turned to improve my caster and help with the driveshaft angle, though just having the HP might help enough with the angle.

                            Sounded like I was going to be able to take everything off my current 44 except the gears and transfer it over to this axle. I do have the duff arms and some shorty headers so if I were to keep it full width that wouldn't be a problem. Though full width won't fit in my 3rd car garage I don't think.
                            Remember if you keep the full width, all you need is the inner long side axle. All others are the same!!
                            “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                            • #15
                              Buddy and I shortened a

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