Front Driveline CV keeps dying

[NOTPRETTY]

Anyone else out there having this problem? I have 5.5 WH coils (Currently worn down about 1-2 inches) with extended All-For-Fun arms. I was running 36" tires and was burning up the CV regularly. I finally replaced the CV with a non CV type shaft, but now I get vibration at high speed...which I expected with that type of shaft.

I have 2 degree bushing...maybe 4 degree...installed upside down to bring the pinion up. That has helped. But, I'd like to add more tire and new coils and return to a CV style shaft. I've seen many EB's with 38's and a standard D44...what are you doing to avoid my problem. I assume high angle drivelines...???

[Delta 4 Wheel]

you need to run the NON greasable cv ball for starters. You also need to dissasemble the cv and grind the H yoke inside where it is hitting. with proper working, you can get 30-32 degrees from a 1310 CV...you definitely need to get the cv back on there...getting a high pinion 44 will make a huge difference, but I know the expense...

[crawlin68]

I know where is a 76 F-150 HP D44 with welded C wedges if you're looking for one. It's not mine, it's in a you pull yard here in Fresno. I just looked at it a few days ago. It is a disc brake axle but everything is stripped off of the knuckles. The knuckles are still there, but you would need spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, bearings, etc... (which I would replace anyway)

Just an FYI.

[mtnbronco]

go d44 HP or clock the D20

[NOTPRETTY]

Yeah an HP 44 would solve the problem, but I've done the math and would rather limp along...save and build a D60.

Good info on the Non-greaseable CV. I knew about the grinding/clearancing, but wasn't aware that there was a non greaseable version. How does it get lubricated? Should any driveline shop know about it?

Marlon

[Familyman]

Hey Marlon good to see you on the board. Met you this summer at the lake with my FS Bronco.
I have been looking into options to get more flex out of my front driveline. If yours is binding up like Delta suggests

You also need to dissasemble the cv and grind the H yoke inside where it is hitting. with proper working, you can get 30-32 degrees from a 1310 CV.

then this may help. I am currently running limiting straps to avoid binding the front driveline but once I am allowed I will take my driveline and have it upgraded as described below
If the front drive line is binding in the cv you can take 2 measurements and call the guys at Driveline of Sac (371-3332) and they will be able to help. I spoke to them and they told me to get the angle off of your t-case output (usually pointing north abit) and the angle of your front driveshaft. Bring the driveline down with these numbers and they should be able to add 8-9 degrees to the driveline for $100. Seems fair to me unless you got the skills to do it yourself. I don't so I use these guys. They shorted a driveline for me. Had it done the day I dropped it off and only ran about $60. Not to bad. hope this helps. FM

[NOTPRETTY]

Hey thanks. Hope the family is all good. I can do it myself but it might be smarter to have someone that has done it several times. I usually use Gary at Driveline of Stockton (Friend) or I have a local guy here in Rancho...AAA Driveshaft (Off S. Sunrise). The prices you quoted for Sac are in the ballpark of what I have been quoted.

I think I am going to dis-assemble a spare CV I have and see if I want to give it a go. Anyone got some pics on the locations to grind...probably be obvious when I disassemble right?

Marlon

[Delta 4 Wheel]

the non greasable one is greased from the factory. On the front, they last a long time...call gary at DLS

[Familyman]

If i get mine done anytime soon I will post some pics to give you and idea of where to grind. FM