Tubed front ends

[Familyman]

I just got back from the 'Con and decided since I won't be running alot in the snow this year that I should cut off the front end (atleast all the sheet metal). Well thats about done and all the wiring and stuff are on the motor, now for my question - how many of you have tubed the front ends? Where did you tie it into the frame ? and if you could post some pics it would be greatly appreciated.
My plan right now is to bend some 2" tube and tie it on both sides of the radiator and run it out to the sides of the inner fender. Tie that tube to the shock hoops and probably to my rock ski's. Then brace it accross the motor with bushing assemblies so it could be removed. I don't plan on changing the suspension right now but I will try to locate the set-up if I chose to go to coil-overs in the future. Thanks for the help. FM
One more thought -Would you make the whole thing removable ?

[earlybronco72]

When I removed my inner fenders I just used 1" box to hold everything up. I attached to the firewall, and to the original body mounts. Really easy to do, but not structural at all. I would definately make it removeable. It would make any engine related repairs that much easier.

[Familyman]

Here are some pics of the monster I have created. It is good that I am not planning on wheelen very soon because this will probably take longer then first estimated (I am sure none of you have had that problem?)
I am going to try and do this as a write up should anyone want to do this also and to have your imput so that I do it right.
The first thing is you will need to pull off your grill and fenders. Now this can be done 2 ways with a saw-all or without. Since my rig has not one strait panel I choose the "with " version. It took all of about 2 hours since I removed the headlights and turn signals ( if you choose the "without" version you may leave them inplace and pull the wire connentions in the back and unbolt it and remove) then I cut down both sides of the grill and off it came. Now that the grill is out of the way it is time to free the radiator.
You will need to remove anything connected to the inner fender and support then cut down both sides of the radiator. now the radiator is free. Unbolt the body mounts and make a couple cuts down the fenders just infront of the bulkhead. This should remove most of the inner and outer fender and the corners of the grill. Last remove the nuts at the fenders/door jams and you should be able to remove the last of the fender. Next seperate the radiator from the grill support then drain and remove the radiator and anything else that will need to be built back in (i.e. ps cooler, battery tray, etc) to your front end. It is easier to drain everything so that they can be mocked inplace.
If you choose the without saw-all version the fenders will need to be unbolted at the inner fender and door and then removed assuming that you have also removed the grill. Note all lights can be unplugged so that you will not have to remove them. You can then saw-all the inner fenders and support if you are not going to use them again.
This should leave use with a fairly blank front end and a great starting point for our build-up.

[Familyman]

Now that we have a clean sheet it is time to decided how do we want to set-up our rig and what if any changes are we going to make.
I debated long about changing the suspension either going to coil-overs or at least longer front shocks but in the end I am happy with the way my rig performs and don't have the extra capital to buy the coil-overs
So I am going to tube the front, hang new sheetmetal, and remount my radiator, ps cooler, batteries and do more wiring clean-up. I will tie the existing shock hoop into the tube frame and build a cross over brace to help stiffen the frame. I also hope to build a support over the radiator since in a roll-over I can see the rig going over accross the radiator to the roll cage. Probably worded that wrong but imagine a line coming from the front bar of your roll cage down to the point on the hood it would most likely strike (on mine this is right over the radiator so it is here I will build in some protection. I also hope to tie it into my new (used) front bumper to help it keep from bending under severe load.

[Familyman]

In the first 2 pics on the last post I made a line with string to see how the main tube would set-up. The next 2 pictures are of my new lower radiator mounts. The final pic tonight is of the distance from my fan to the radiator. It is 1 to 1.25" from the radiator, it seems about right to me the way it all looks but if I am wrong or too close please give me a heads up. Thanks FM

[slvregl]

One suggestion....Move your radiator forward as far as you can and mount a large electric fan on the inside. By doing so...you eleminate the chance of pushing your fan through the radiator. And if you by chance hit the electric fan on the waterpump pulley, you can put a switch in-line to turn the fan off. Works good for deep water crossings too.

[FordCore]

So, Family you plan on running your finders in stock location and demensions correct. While doing this you also plan to make the skeleton under the fenders structural as well. For your hoop that connects to the shock hoops, have you though of tieing that into the roll cage by passing through the firewall. You need to make sure when you design the front section for the core support/grill that you make certain the lower section wear the fender and grill connect you install a support bc that area is weak without the inner fender to mount to. I hate seeing bodies that wiggle cause thats a cause for something to get work hardened and cracking.

[Howdy]

FM.....Your PM box is full. Check your e-mail. I need my reamer back by Friday night/Saturday morning.

Steve

[Familyman]

Howdy - I will drop it off tomarrow (thur)

slvregl - I had an electric on my 79 Bronco and it worked well. Thermostat with an additional on/off switch work well. Wasn't going to do that this time but may now that you have suggested it since it would be easier to mount a support above the radiatorwith it laid a bit sideways -thanks

Fordcore -

While doing this you also plan to make the skeleton under the fenders structural as well.

No, but I might look into since you bring it up. Was going to build a 1" box substructure to hold the body together. I will post pics when I start getting that part done.

For your hoop that connects to the shock hoops, have you though of tieing that into the roll cage by passing through the firewall

No, I plan on keeping this seperate since the cage is tied in with bushing (for flex) and I don't want this part to flex. But I have thought about it and at this point I may change my mind but haven't yet. Once I get the 2 main posts (mounted right at the body mounts and the 2 main runners I will look into it) I will be tying this into my nerf bars so it will be attached to the cage in an indirect sort of way. Will post some pics of what I am hoping.
The red lines are the tubes. The one that comes up from the body mount (near the ps box) is the one I refer to as main posts and the long one running accross the top is the main runner. Both those will be 2" and so will the bent tube that comes down to the rock rail. The rest will be 1.5 or 1".
Thanks for all the questions, they make me think

[crawlin68]

Wow, I can't wait to see it done. What made you decide to do this?

[Familyman]

What made you decide to do this?

Well I don't get to wheel every week or even every month with 3 kids, job, kids sports and everything else going on so I decided that I probably wasn't going to get to wheel anymore this year (except snow wheel and since I have no tops at all that wasn't going to happen with the family) . So I decided the next best way to play with my EB was to cut it up and pretty much turn it into a buggy with a skin. So I will tube the front and hang a skin around it. I was thinking I would save weight but that is probably a wash. I do have a new (used ) grill and 2 fenders (thanks Fordcore) that I will hang to pretty it up alittle.
In the future I will probably go with fiberglass panels so I may save weight down the line. I will eventually cut up the rear also and sheet metal the inside and hang fiberglass in the rear to but thats at least a year or two off. Kinda like what bent70 is up too.
So I have until May at the worst before I will hit it hard again and then I hope that it will be set up for all 5 of us. Plus the wife likes the idea of a semi-strait rig and even wants me to paint it. She digs classic rigs. So we will see what happens. FM

[Howdy]

Thanks Chuck.......If I happen not to be home you can just leave it at the door. I have to do some running around tomorrow so chances are 50/50.

Steve

[NOTPRETTY]

Keeps the pics coming and let me know if you need another pair of hands. I'm just down the road.



go2camp@comcast.net

Marlon

[Familyman]

Thanks NOTPRETTY I might just do that. I am saving for supplies and then I will let ya know. Hey can anyone out the tell me how far from the frame ends to the inside of the bottom lip of the grill?? Thanks FM

[Familyman]

Here is the updated pics. I changed the lower radiator mounts because although they were light wieght and cool they did nothing to protect the radiator. So now there is a 1.5 " tube just under it with 2 fast tabs to mount the lower rad mounts too. Then I tied that tube to another 2" tube that is my steering box brace. I may even make a bolt on plate to cover the whole area but we'll see.