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Question about adding braces to my cage

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  • Question about adding braces to my cage

    I started with the basic Crab cage. I've already added door braces and a "V" brace behind the front seats for harness attachment. (shown in green) My question is, should I add more bracing on the top corners? (shown in red) Or would this be overkill and not necessary? I don't want to add additional weight if there won't be a significant improvement in safety. (Not to mention that it is a pain in the Arss doing this with out a notcher) Just a 4 inch grinder. But if it will add safety to the cage, then I will do it.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by crawlin68; 11-14-2005, 09:28 AM.

  • #2
    I think the extra weight would be very minimal and the added strenght would be a good idea. Especially the gussets between the a and b hoop in the back, if you did roll that would probablly be the only weak point that would fold in, but you would probablly have to roll hard.
    Other than that I think the extra gussets would look pretty good and would add to the style of the cage.
    70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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    • #3
      Ok, cool. Maybe I'll go ahead and add them. Thanks for the advice.

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      • #4
        I ment to say the b-c hoops not a-b there already gusseted.
        70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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        • #5
          I have discussed your cage with a fellow Mudracer who builds his own chassis and has for years.

          As seeing how its pretty similar to mine so far, the only thing on your cage, we questioned was the kickers, why did Cage mount them so low on the B pillar? One major hit, as in backwards flop or endo, may have the B pillar cave in half.

          Glad to see you did ask me for permission and did end up copying my V brace and harness mount.... cant wait to see finished pics and the comparision between yours and mine. Although I can say right now, mine will have more tube in the back half, I could care less if I am to be killed in a rollover but my passengers come first.

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          • #6
            I to questioned the mid point attachment of the diagnal bar @ the B post. Mounting a bar in this manor directs the cage to bend at that point when force is applied. That bar aside I like all the red braces you have and I would add an X in the top of the rear sectoin from B to C. This section is where your passingers will be and their is not alot of structure to keep this area from squashing side to side. Adding an X in top will brace it right off your B hoop and disperce the force more evenly accross the whole cage. Just my $.02

            Kevin
            71 EB 56K original miles stock for now!

            73 EB/rock buggy 351W EFI, Art Car C-4 manual VB w/ comp braking, 37 MTR's, 4-Link F&R, Fox Air 16", Full Hydro and now it runs!

            51 F1 PU with MII front end, T-Bird IRS

            70 C10 SWB, 92 LT1 vett motor, 700R4, power everything, great driving street rig.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by PhantomEB
              the only thing on your cage, we questioned was the kickers, why did Cage mount them so low on the B pillar?

              I'm not sure where exactly you are talking about. When you say the "kicker" what part of the cage are you talking about?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Rokcrln
                I to questioned the mid point attachment of the diagnal bar @ the B post. Mounting a bar in this manor directs the cage to bend at that point when force is applied. That bar aside I like all the red braces you have and I would add an X in the top of the rear sectoin from B to C. This section is where your passingers will be and their is not alot of structure to keep this area from squashing side to side. Adding an X in top will brace it right off your B hoop and disperce the force more evenly accross the whole cage. Just my $.02

                Kevin

                Hey Kevin,

                I thought about adding an "X" in the rear top section. An "X" gives you the best triangulation, right? Thanks.

                Patrick

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                • #9
                  Is this the "kicker" that you are refering to that you are saying should be mounted higher on the "B" or middle pillar?
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Pic #1 is the "V" that was my idea to mount the harness to and still have access to the back. Pic #2 is what I think I will add. Any other suggestions??




                    Just kidding Phantom!
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Yes thats what I meant by kickers.

                      And yes the X brace will be strongest over all. I am doing a reverse V over my rear section. more for head room for those riding out back. I only plan to let them stay there if I dont see any problems coming up with a certain section of trail.

                      Over the front part of the head area, I will have the two bars going up the middle, more for CB/Stereo/Interior light area. But two more diagonals over each side. \II/ so to speak.
                      Last edited by PhantomEB; 11-15-2005, 06:36 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by PhantomEB
                        Yes thats what I meant by kickers.

                        And yes the X brace will be strongest over all. I am doing a reverse V over my rear section. more for head room for those riding out back. I only plan to let them stay there if I dont see any problems coming up with a certain section of trail.

                        Over the front part of the head area, I will have the two bars going up the middle, more for CB/Stereo/Interior light area. But two more diagonals over each side. \II/ so to speak.

                        That's what I was afraid of. Is there anything that I can do to rectify the kickers now? I don't know why they put them as low as they are???

                        That's kind of scary. I guess great minds think alike, eh' I was thinking of adding the same diagonal braces overhead up front, but thought that maybe I was getting a little carried away with adding stuff.

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                        • #13
                          Yup great minds do think alike, although I have had a lot of help here and there with mine.

                          Kickers.... cut out, and use for the diagonals? then put in proper kickers?

                          To me, I have always thought the Crab cages were more geared to looks over strength.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by PhantomEB
                            Yup great minds do think alike, although I have had a lot of help here and there with mine.

                            Kickers.... cut out, and use for the diagonals? then put in proper kickers?

                            To me, I have always thought the Crab cages were more geared to looks over strength.

                            LOL. That's what I thought you were going to say. (About cutting the kickers out) Where would be the ideal spot to place the new ones? Up higher on the "B" post? How high?

                            Yeah, I have received soooo much help from people here on this board!

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                            • #15
                              Cage looks real good. I think what you have is good enough for almost all wheeling conditions, short of going off a cliff. I think adding all the tubes in red, will be added insurance if a bad roll would happen. The added gussets in the top corners would make the cage look real good and strengthen it well.
                              70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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