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  • Motor Mount replacement

    A little about the rig. 71, 302, 3.5 sus. 2 in body, 435/20

    I spent a few hours today trying to install my new WH extreme MM's. I got the driverside in with out to much trouble, by unbolting the t-case cross member from the frame, but cant get the pass side up enough to get the old out without cutting the stud off the bottom.

    I know I have a little more flexibility getting the new 2-piece mounts in, but don't want to cut the stud if I won't be able to get the new one in.

    Long story short, has anyone done this? Am I wasting my time? I don't want to pull the motor if I don't have to.

    Help please!!!! Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
    71, 302, 435, 20, spool rear, ARB front, 35's,3.5sl 2"bl
    nodular 3rd 1350 yoke disks allaround and on the road again

  • #2
    I've never done it, but did you remove the cross member completely, and take the linkage loose? I would think you would have enough room to do it, but I could be wrong.
    Marc D.
    If you drive with rage, drive a cage.

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    • #3
      I replaced mine with the WH mounts and had no problems, what I did was loosen both mounts, floor jack at the oil pan with a 2x6 inbetween, the old drivers side mount was broke in half and almost fell out, other side took a little more work, used a bottle jack to lift that side a little higher. Installed mounts then let the jacks down and tighted bolts. I have the auto trans and did not have to loosen the crossmember. Hope this helps
      Joe

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      • #4
        Originally posted by ACE
        I replaced mine with the WH mounts and had no problems, what I did was loosen both mounts, floor jack at the oil pan with a 2x6 inbetween, the old drivers side mount was broke in half and almost fell out, other side took a little more work, used a bottle jack to lift that side a little higher. Installed mounts then let the jacks down and tighted bolts. I have the auto trans and did not have to loosen the crossmember. Hope this helps
        Joe
        I did the same, jacked up from the oil pan, I did not have to loose my T-case mount at all
        Mark Harris
        71 Bronco, 9 inch, 60, c4, Stak 3 speed, and 42 inch balloons.

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        • #5
          I installed the WH mounts when I did my motor swap. They fit perfectly
          Mark Langford
          Dysfunctional Rockcrawlers Member


          91 YJ, 6.0 Vortec, T18, 4:1 D300, D60's 5.13's ARB & Detroit, R.E. SOA Leafs in front & 5.5" RE Coils w/4-link in the rear, 42" Iroks on Walker Evans Beadlocks.

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          • #6
            I love mine and they fit great as well....
            “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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            • #7
              Yeah I used a piece of 7/8ths ply on the oil pan. The driver side was pretty easy. The pass side is the one that's broken, and is giving me the headache. It could be the bent frame just in front of the coil bucket on that side. I'm gonna give it hell again tomorrow afternoon.
              71, 302, 435, 20, spool rear, ARB front, 35's,3.5sl 2"bl
              nodular 3rd 1350 yoke disks allaround and on the road again

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              • #8
                Try installing it in 2 pieces...
                “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                • #9
                  Update

                  Well it's in. Welll sort of. I still have to get it to line up with the block. The holes are about a half inch off.

                  My next question. Is the crossmember slotted side to side where the adapter bolts thru?

                  The reason I ask is that I think I have to get the whole back end of the driveline to slide to the driverside to get the motor to shift back a bit.
                  71, 302, 435, 20, spool rear, ARB front, 35's,3.5sl 2"bl
                  nodular 3rd 1350 yoke disks allaround and on the road again

                  Comment

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