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I'll give a brief description of what my tranny is doing:
In moab at about 2400 RPMs and up the converter (I thought) was making a whining noise that got higher pitched with higher RPMs. Did not happen at idle and did not happen when hot.
Got it home, and it didn't do it here.
Before the con it started doing it again. I checked the fluid and it was a dark grey-black color but no noise. I flushed the tranny and put in new fluid. All seemed fine.
2 weeks ago, started to whine so I dropped the pan plug and noticed fluid was black again with a lot of metal on the pan magnet (ouch)
Filled it back up and tranny seemed fine still.
Last week the whine started back at 2400 rpms. I was only driving it around town since my truck is DOA. It started making this whine at idle and really bad at all rpms, increasing noise with rpms. Shifts (manual valve body) were really soft and squishy and some power loss. Stopped and shifted the 203 in to take some load off of the tranny. Shifts were harder but still not neck jerking like before.
I got home and dropped the fluid once again and it was black like diluted diesel oil. I filled it back up and the noise was gone. Drove it around the block with the 203 engauged and broght it back home. Pulled the dipstick and the fluid came shooting out like a geiser. (yes I have a vent catch can....why is it not working?) and yes it cought fire on the headers. I was glad I was home with a hose handy.
So in my mind since Moab, I was thinking my NEW Art Carr converter was failing. With the black fluid I was still thinking converter slippage, wear and heat build-up causing black fluid.
I called Art Carr and gave Mike the converter guy the back ground. He immediately said my pump was failing causing the noise which he called hydraulic whine. He said the internal bypass for the cooler may be stuck sending way too much fluid to the cooling circuit. He said they block that passage to keep this from happening.
He said for me to send in the converter and if it failed they would repair it for free as well as modify the pump for free. If the pump itself has failed they would rebuild that as well for a small fee.
I sure in the hell hope it is the converter because if my pump caused the converter to fail, I am out 450 bucks. Either way, out comes the drivetrain again!!!!! Anybody wanna help??
In moab at about 2400 RPMs and up the converter (I thought) was making a whining noise that got higher pitched with higher RPMs. Did not happen at idle and did not happen when hot.
Got it home, and it didn't do it here.
Before the con it started doing it again. I checked the fluid and it was a dark grey-black color but no noise. I flushed the tranny and put in new fluid. All seemed fine.
2 weeks ago, started to whine so I dropped the pan plug and noticed fluid was black again with a lot of metal on the pan magnet (ouch)
Filled it back up and tranny seemed fine still.
Last week the whine started back at 2400 rpms. I was only driving it around town since my truck is DOA. It started making this whine at idle and really bad at all rpms, increasing noise with rpms. Shifts (manual valve body) were really soft and squishy and some power loss. Stopped and shifted the 203 in to take some load off of the tranny. Shifts were harder but still not neck jerking like before.
I got home and dropped the fluid once again and it was black like diluted diesel oil. I filled it back up and the noise was gone. Drove it around the block with the 203 engauged and broght it back home. Pulled the dipstick and the fluid came shooting out like a geiser. (yes I have a vent catch can....why is it not working?) and yes it cought fire on the headers. I was glad I was home with a hose handy.
So in my mind since Moab, I was thinking my NEW Art Carr converter was failing. With the black fluid I was still thinking converter slippage, wear and heat build-up causing black fluid.
I called Art Carr and gave Mike the converter guy the back ground. He immediately said my pump was failing causing the noise which he called hydraulic whine. He said the internal bypass for the cooler may be stuck sending way too much fluid to the cooling circuit. He said they block that passage to keep this from happening.
He said for me to send in the converter and if it failed they would repair it for free as well as modify the pump for free. If the pump itself has failed they would rebuild that as well for a small fee.
I sure in the hell hope it is the converter because if my pump caused the converter to fail, I am out 450 bucks. Either way, out comes the drivetrain again!!!!! Anybody wanna help??
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