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Power brake master cylinder, prop. valve?

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  • #1

    Power brake master cylinder, prop. valve?

    Now that I've installed disc brakes up front, I need to upgrade my master cylinder and install an adjustable proportioning valve.

    I have the power brake upgrade that kicks the master cylinder out at an angle. Does anybody know what basic master cylinder is used in these kits?

    I'd like to upgrade it to a nice Wildwood set-up or something similar:

    http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...ders/index.asp

    Somebody here must have gone through this already, what'd y'all recommend?
    70 rebuilt 302, Edelbrock Performer intake and carb, C4, 20 w/aftermarket gears & HD output, D44 w/Power-lock, disks, 4:88, 9 in Detroit, PS, PB, winch, lights, rock bumpers, full cage, 3 1/2" WH lift, 2" body lift, IROK 37's, 23 gal tank

    "70" CJ-5 ('58 frame, '70 tub, '72 running gear, '80 motor) 350 sbc, 5 1/2 in lift, 35's, PS, PB, full cage, lockers, 5.38's re-gear spring over going in soon.

    And a bunch of other crap, some of them run.....
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  • #2
    I am running a stock power brake bronco master on mine. I know a lot of people are running the F250 camper special master as it has a larger bore. There may be others out there too.
    1968, 69 351W,NP 435, Stak 5.22, D44 with 4.10's, chebby discs and a detroit, 9" with 4.11's and a lockright. 35" MTR's, TRO, WH cage, ps, pb, 3.5" susp, 2" body lifts, pile of parts in the garage, empty wallet!

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    • #3
      The cheaper of the masters is the 78-79 bronco/pu master, 1" bore. Around $35... The 1 1/8" bore master that is on the camper spl. or 90ish lincoln's is around $95... I have the 78 bronco one on mine and it works just fine !!! The larger more spendy one is the one that comes with the kits... hope this helps,,, pops
      Last edited by TBS-POPS; 11-29-2008, 10:23 AM.
      72 sport/exp.,TBI 302,NP435,4.56 Powrlok/ARB in Full Width's.5.5" CAGE lift w/arms,2'' bl,37's, rescued from the concrete jungle (L.A.) NEVER DONE!!! Sold to buy a Boat, Now Broncoless.....Now it's fast water,smooth women and cold beer!! toad jeep owner now,,,,,, sorry

      ALL MY DRINKING BUDDIES HAVE A SEVERE BRONCO PROBLEM !!!


      Originally posted by 71BRONCO71
      BULLSHIT! I love your meat in my mouth
      RIP MARK BECK RIP MY FRIEND! RIP GIZMO,My little Buddy.

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      • #4
        If I remember right, the smaller the bore, the harder the pedal, and in turn, the larger the bore, the softer the pedal.
        Marc D.
        If you drive with rage, drive a cage.

        Comment

        • #5
          Thanks, guys!
          70 rebuilt 302, Edelbrock Performer intake and carb, C4, 20 w/aftermarket gears & HD output, D44 w/Power-lock, disks, 4:88, 9 in Detroit, PS, PB, winch, lights, rock bumpers, full cage, 3 1/2" WH lift, 2" body lift, IROK 37's, 23 gal tank

          "70" CJ-5 ('58 frame, '70 tub, '72 running gear, '80 motor) 350 sbc, 5 1/2 in lift, 35's, PS, PB, full cage, lockers, 5.38's re-gear spring over going in soon.

          And a bunch of other crap, some of them run.....

          Comment

          • #6
            I have a spare one from the camper special.
            1970 w/89 5.0, np 435/203/205, 456/locker/ARB, 4 wheel disc brakes w/hydroboost, 5.5" lift w/ext.radius arms, 3" bod lift, RS 9000's, tilt column, Hydro assist steering, 39.5" pitbull's on H1's. 4 link rear suspension. Hey brother, can you spare some change, I need parts....

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            • #7
              Originally posted by earlybronco72 View Post
              If I remember right, the smaller the bore, the harder the pedal, and in turn, the larger the bore, the softer the pedal.
              It's the other way around, small bore displaces less fluid, but more pressure with the same pedal force. Large bore displaces more fluid with less pressure with equal pedal force. Larger bore also means shorter pedal stroke to displace the same amount of fluid.
              With a good working power boost the pedal force really doesn't make that much difference, but the length of pedal stroke does. Too large a bore and the brakes are very sensitive, to small and you have to push the pedal to the floor to stop or worse you max out the pedal without displacing enough fluid.
              Last edited by highlander; 11-30-2008, 10:15 PM.
              69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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              • #8
                What Steve said.... Yeah....
                72 sport/exp.,TBI 302,NP435,4.56 Powrlok/ARB in Full Width's.5.5" CAGE lift w/arms,2'' bl,37's, rescued from the concrete jungle (L.A.) NEVER DONE!!! Sold to buy a Boat, Now Broncoless.....Now it's fast water,smooth women and cold beer!! toad jeep owner now,,,,,, sorry

                ALL MY DRINKING BUDDIES HAVE A SEVERE BRONCO PROBLEM !!!


                Originally posted by 71BRONCO71
                BULLSHIT! I love your meat in my mouth
                RIP MARK BECK RIP MY FRIEND! RIP GIZMO,My little Buddy.

                Comment

                • #9
                  I stand corrected. I wasn't possitive when I posted that.
                  Marc D.
                  If you drive with rage, drive a cage.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    What is the bore on the early bronco MC? (76-77). I have converted to Astrovan Hydroboost, anyone know what large bore MC I should run? The way I built the bracket, for my hydroboost, the pedal uses all of it's travel just before it touches the floor.
                    SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.

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                    • #11
                      Which side do you need the lines to come out?
                      76-77 broncos had 1" bore master cylinders.
                      Last edited by highlander; 11-30-2008, 10:20 PM.
                      69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        The side the lines come out of really doesn't matter, but I believe the bolt pattern on the chevy MC is wider than the Ford. So I probably need to get a chevy MC.
                        SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.

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                        • #13
                          IIRC, if you're going to use a Chebby MC, the 74-76 Corvette MC is the way to go......might want to dbbl check the years though. If no one chimes in, give Chuck a call at BCB....

                          Sean
                          '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

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