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I can get some picts tomorrow. I do run a serp belt, but with a *cough* chevy 350tbi *cough*.
-Darin
67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)
Not sure if these pictures help for your application, my radiator is 26"wide and had to notch the frame for it.
-Darin
Attached Files
67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)
Thanks again for all the suggestions guys! From the looks of things, I think I'll cut out the center section of my core support and build some new bracketry that butts up right behind the grill to move the radiator forward. Hopefully this will give me enough clearance between the back of the fan motor and my stock V-belt pulleys! I hate the notion of cutting on my beautiful stock hood to take out the hood latch and install pins but, after all, I did cut the cherry rear fenders out of it...
As far as wiring, is anyone running this fan with BOTH the hi and low speed options? Doesn't seem like it'd be too hard to wire it all up with the above diagram as a starting point...
sigpicRoad trips on an island get boring after the 1st lap...
Just looked at a guys setup last night down here in San Diego. He's running the Taurus fan and did not have to modify his core support at all. Running a 5.0 with explorer serp setup and he's got about 1" of clearance between the fan motor and his water pump with a stock radiator. He's also got the DC 50 amp unit that runs on a potentiometer. He's only got the HI side wired because the controller actually changes the fan speed depending on the temp and keeps the radiator at a more even temp vice kicking the fan off when it gets cool and kicking it back on when it gets hot... Keeping the "sign wave" at a more even level if you will...
I think I'll go this route vice hacking my way through a "custom" wiring setup and alleviate my need for switches...
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