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Need a shop to cut and turn knuckles

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  • Need a shop to cut and turn knuckles

    Does anybody have a shop they could reccomend to cut and rotate the knuckles on a D60?

  • #2
    Call Wade or his dad, Bill at Off Road Enterprises in Stockton. He will pul th tubes from the pumpkin which should work the same. Ask him if they do the knuckles as well...
    “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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    • #3
      Sounds like it would be the same thing, I'll give them a call. Thanks

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      • #4
        Hey Mike, let me know what you find out. I need to have my D60 done too.

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        • #5
          I wish I had a 60 around......got every thing else but no 60, now how the hell am I gonna get 42s on there one day?

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          • #6
            I have used these guys before. Awesome work and reasonably priced. Highly reccomend them. Never used them to rotate axles though.
            CURRENT: D44 and 9" with open 3.50's, Atlas II, NV4500, stock suspension, 2" body lift, 31" tires. 93 Mustang 5.0 bored over and ported/polished.

            IN PROGESS: 3.5" suspension lift and CAGE arms.

            NEEDS: ARB's front and rear, and GEARS!

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            • #7
              why would you rotate the pumkin if you are trying to correct a camber/caster issue? The wedges are on the tubes. I can see rotate the pumkin for pinion angle but not for caster/camber. Am I missing something here
              70 Bronco with extras; 351W TBI,C-4, D20, HP44 locked w/ 4.56, locked 9" w/31spline, 35 tires, pb 4w-disc, on a 5.5 lift with WAH and Rockers.

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              • #8
                No, you are right. When I did the conversion it was easier to set the caster with the bushings and then rotate the pumpkin up to a positive 3 degrees. If you just cut and turn the knuckles, you might still have a screwed up pinion angle. Unless you are HIGE with stock radius arms, the correct caster should be an easy fix with the right bushings.

                I used it as an oportunity to really get my pinion up high. I have the 2-3 degrees offset on the pinion, but it is UP 3 degrees instead of down. As tall as I am, this really works well. My rig handles extremely well. It is ok in the front this was because there is obviously no axle wrap in the front...I also had the shop set my caster to a negative 4 degrees which works very well with the large tires and lift.

                Here's what I told them...

                Set the knuckles to a negative 4 degrees
                Rotate the pumpkin 18 degrees up from the stock location.

                After I got it back, I just used to right cbushings to keep the 4 negative caster degrees and the pinion was perfect. To find the 18 degree number I rolled the knuckles back to 4 degrees, ran a straight line where the pumpkin was and checked tha angle. I the rotated the pumpkin up to where I needed it then measured it there then subtractedthe numbers for the rotation needs...
                “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by mtnbronco
                  why would you rotate the pumkin if you are trying to correct a camber/caster issue? The wedges are on the tubes. I can see rotate the pumkin for pinion angle but not for caster/camber. Am I missing something here
                  Six or a half dozen... The wedges are easy to get off and move but getting the castor/pinion relationship is not something I want to try at home. Apparently there is a serious press fit on the tubes. It's a safety issue, the potenial for flying wrenches is way too high.
                  Delta thanks for the reference. I called them and they seem like good guys. Unfortunetly I don't think it's in the budget this year. I'm just going to slap some seven degree bushings in backwards to get the pinion up and have a grocery getter for another year.

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                  • #10
                    Just out of curiosity, what did they quote you to do it?

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                    • #11
                      I looked into doing this before I bought my Duff arms a couple years back. Specialized 4wd in Sacto recommened a couple people who do this. One was in Stockton and might even be the same guys Delta mentioned. I called a shop closer to Sac who had a jig set up for doing this. I want to say the quote I got at that time was around the $400 to $500 range.

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                      • #12
                        I payed $130 a side. Usually $150 for Retail customers...
                        “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by crawlin68
                          Just out of curiosity, what did they quote you to do it?
                          $500 with the housing stripped but leaving the gears in. The guy agreed the gears should be at least checked/possibly reset after working on the pumpkin end of things. So couple that with a 60 being more difficult to work on and your about the same as Deltas numbers. A buddy did his 44 at home but the 60 inner knuckle is suppose to be a wildcard when it comes to getting it broke free. I say you try it and let us know how it goes!

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