If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I've been running without one for about a year and I need to build one before my trip to Moonrocks later this month. I could really use some ideas and inspiration. Care to share what you're done?
Thanks
Mark Langford
Dysfunctional Rockcrawlers Member
91 YJ, 6.0 Vortec, T18, 4:1 D300, D60's 5.13's ARB & Detroit, R.E. SOA Leafs in front & 5.5" RE Coils w/4-link in the rear, 42" Iroks on Walker Evans Beadlocks.
I have a piece of 5/16 plate that I have been saving for a belly skid plate. It's heavy as heck. I've been thinking that this idea is a little overboard, but here it is.
I'm running the Cold Duck Transfer Case and clocked my T-case up some degrees so that the drain plug is barely visible when looking under the bronco. I would like to just take the plate and bolt it to the frame using some poly bushings between the plate and frame. It would be as wide as the outside frame rails and as long as I could without interfering with the drive line geometry.
Another way to do it would be to use angle iron and a lighter piece of plate to conserve on the weight issue.
I like the idea of covering all that I can possibly cover with flat plate. Less likely to hang up on rocks and be able to slide over obstacles rather than catching on them.
at one point I thought about integrating a skid plate and rock skis to cover it all, including my side tank. Then I decided it was to much work and to much weight.
1968, 69 351W,NP 435, Stak 5.22, D44 with 4.10's, chebby discs and a detroit, 9" with 4.11's and a lockright. 35" MTR's, TRO, WH cage, ps, pb, 3.5" susp, 2" body lifts, pile of parts in the garage, empty wallet!
I have one laying around if you want to copy it.
I have one for a stock rear tank and i have one for the transfer case. I never got around to mounting them, so they are available to copy. These were built by a metal fab shop my friend worked for in Fresno..
70 Bronco with extras; 351W TBI,C-4, D20, HP44 locked w/ 4.56, locked 9" w/31spline, 35 tires, pb 4w-disc, on a 5.5 lift with WAH and Rockers.
I have one laying around if you want to copy it.
I have one for a stock rear tank and i have one for the transfer case. I never got around to mounting them, so they are available to copy. These were built by a metal fab shop my friend worked for in Fresno..
Any chance that you have a picture of the t-case plate?
Mark Langford
Dysfunctional Rockcrawlers Member
91 YJ, 6.0 Vortec, T18, 4:1 D300, D60's 5.13's ARB & Detroit, R.E. SOA Leafs in front & 5.5" RE Coils w/4-link in the rear, 42" Iroks on Walker Evans Beadlocks.
I dont have mine built yet, but I will be building one soon. Due to the genious design of the Atlas II sight tube, the whole bottom of the Atlas will need a plate. The atlas is setting right between my radius arm mounts. I plan on building one mount on each side of the frame rail about 18 inches behind the radius arm mounts. These mounts will be the same height as the radius arm mounts. I will use these to build a skid plate off of. I have a large piece of 1/2 place that I will use. Hope this makes sense.
“I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ
On my buggy I built the entire chassie around the idea of a flat belly and it looks like it will work I am thinking about using teflon with bracing above for support. If I do not do this it will be 3/16 plate bolted to the bottom. It will run from just behind the bell housing and run behind the Atlass II just to where the drive line brake is located.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
71 EB 56K original miles stock for now!
73 EB/rock buggy 351W EFI, Art Car C-4 manual VB w/ comp braking, 37 MTR's, 4-Link F&R, Fox Air 16", Full Hydro and now it runs!
51 F1 PU with MII front end, T-Bird IRS
70 C10 SWB, 92 LT1 vett motor, 700R4, power everything, great driving street rig.
On my buggy I built the entire chassie around the idea of a flat belly and it looks like it will work I am thinking about using teflon with bracing above for support. If I do not do this it will be 3/16 plate bolted to the bottom. It will run from just behind the bell housing and run behind the Atlass II just to where the drive line brake is located.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
How much weight do you think this adds?? ( a full plate just slotted out around the drive shafts) I know I have a stock possition Dana 20.. But If someone comes up with a Full bellypan skid plate for stock setups.... $$$$$$$ Just think.. I'll be your trial ..
a full plate belly pan is not worth it. it will cause heat to build up in the area because the exhaust is running through it. I have the tc plates but never installed them, and i have never hit anything in the last 9 years,,
70 Bronco with extras; 351W TBI,C-4, D20, HP44 locked w/ 4.56, locked 9" w/31spline, 35 tires, pb 4w-disc, on a 5.5 lift with WAH and Rockers.
91 YJ, 6.0 Vortec, T18, 4:1 D300, D60's 5.13's ARB & Detroit, R.E. SOA Leafs in front & 5.5" RE Coils w/4-link in the rear, 42" Iroks on Walker Evans Beadlocks.
Thanks for all the suggestions! Has anyone used or heard of someone using the BC Skid plate?
Mark Langford
Dysfunctional Rockcrawlers Member
91 YJ, 6.0 Vortec, T18, 4:1 D300, D60's 5.13's ARB & Detroit, R.E. SOA Leafs in front & 5.5" RE Coils w/4-link in the rear, 42" Iroks on Walker Evans Beadlocks.
Has anyone used or heard of someone using the BC Skid plate?
Here's a pics of the one from BC Bronco's
Attached Files
Mark Langford
Dysfunctional Rockcrawlers Member
91 YJ, 6.0 Vortec, T18, 4:1 D300, D60's 5.13's ARB & Detroit, R.E. SOA Leafs in front & 5.5" RE Coils w/4-link in the rear, 42" Iroks on Walker Evans Beadlocks.
Comment