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  • In regard to a limit strap you can also just weld a tab to stop the swing of the carrier. I have done this on the last 2 and it works great but I would like to see what you come up with especially if it is adjustable.

    FM <><
    Thanks for the info FM. For the latch I was planning to use the DeStaCo latch but was going to have the tube rest against a round saddle much like the picture you posted. I wanted to be able to open the gate quickly and easily, but if the latch ends up not holding solid I will add a bolt like yours to keep it secure.
    I initially was going to just do the tab and maybe even have a pin that would hold it open. I am only considering the limit strap so it would double as a safety in case the spindle did give the rack and tire wouldn't fall off going down the highway, just to be on the safe side.
    I think my spindles will have to mount over the top of the tube about where the bend starts, do you think it would be wise to drill the 1.25" hole through the 2" tube, I was thinking it needed to go through some type of plate gusset like you described as well?
    As far as the spindle braking, the few pictures I saw on Pirate they snapped right where the spindle tapers down for the lower bearing. One of them happened while the gate was closed and driving down the freeway (or so they claim). Like I said before ,I know a lot people that have used these for years, so who knows. My guess is the ones that broke were most likely due to the tire hitting something on the trail which damaged the spindle and it just broke off later???
    69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

    Comment


    • I used the trailer spindles as well and have since found the same occurances with the spindles snapping off (not my own). Most people think it is from the severe heat the spindle encounters during welding. Some have used tube (ID) that closely matches the OD of the spindle. They weld in the sleeve solid then drill out a few holes midway for some solid tacks to hold the spindle in.

      Steve, I built a cam latch that is pretty stout IMO. If you end up here in Clovis soon come by and you can take a look at it

      Comment


      • Steve, I built a cam latch that is pretty stout IMO. If you end up here in Clovis soon come by and you can take a look at it
        Hey Cheesenip post a pic I would like to see what you came up with

        Steve could you heat and bend some plate at the top and bottom of the tube to add more surface area ?? The only other thing is that with just the single tube holding it when you load up that bumper and swing it out it may flex the whole end of the tube just alittle. Mine does if I lean on it ,but with just the tire it doesn't seem to mind too much.
        In regard to the spindle just "breaking off" driving down the road. I have a hard time believing it didn't take some tremendous shock prior to that. With that being said with force in the right place I guess you could shear a 1" thick spindle. Heck we break enough stuff
        Looking forward to seeing the latch assembly you choose. It will be quicker then my big bolt. But I will mention that once you run that tap thru a couple of times and lubricate the thread - it just about spins on once you take the initial pressure off of it.


        FM <><
        Last edited by Familyman; 08-12-2007, 02:27 PM.
        72EB, one-ton fab project that will never end

        Be on your guard; stand firm in the faith; be men of courage; be strong. Do everything in love.
        1 Cor 16:13-14

        Comment


        • I used the trailer spindles as well and have since found the same occurances with the spindles snapping off (not my own). Most people think it is from the severe heat the spindle encounters during welding. Some have used tube (ID) that closely matches the OD of the spindle. They weld in the sleeve solid then drill out a few holes midway for some solid tacks to hold the spindle in.

          Steve, I built a cam latch that is pretty stout IMO. If you end up here in Clovis soon come by and you can take a look at it
          __________________
          I would like to see the cam latch and your Bronco, PM me your phone # and I will try to drop by when I am in town.
          69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

          Comment


          • Steve could you heat and bend some plate at the top and bottom of the tube to add more surface area ?? The only other thing is that with just the single tube holding it when you load up that bumper and swing it out it may flex the whole end of the tube just alittle. Mine does if I lean on it ,but with just the tire it doesn't seem to mind too much.
            In regard to the spindle just "breaking off" driving down the road. I have a hard time believing it didn't take some tremendous shock prior to that. With that being said with force in the right place I guess you could shear a 1" thick spindle. Heck we break enough stuff
            Looking forward to seeing the latch assembly you choose. It will be quicker then my big bolt. But I will mention that once you run that tap thru a couple of times and lubricate the thread - it just about spins on once you take the initial pressure off of it.


            FM <>
            I will see what I come up with, I kind of like Cheesnip's idea of running it through a tube sleeve also. I will also have a diagonal brace from the corner tube back to the side of the frame that should help keep the corner from twisting or being pushed in when my excellent driving skills causes the corner to hit something.
            Last edited by highlander; 08-12-2007, 05:31 PM.
            69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

            Comment


            • Here is a pic of what I did with mine. Its a picece of 1" stainless rod with a threaded end that I found years back at ABC Supply in Sac. It is welded thru the top and bottom of the bumper for support not just butt welded to the top. The bottom is a big fat pulg weld but I remember the top being a cold fillet. I ended up grinding the weld smooth on the top so the bearing would sit flat on the top of the bumper. Its held out fine and if you have the swing out open you can sit on the end and watch the frame of the bronco flex. The hub is just a piece of pipe that was machined out to receieve the races for the upper and lower bearing, the white area is teflon that I picked up at Blue Collar Supply and cut to make a seal/washer. It didnt seal too well, the bearings had a bunch of rust in them last time I had it apart. Maybe the cold weld at the top where the leverage is is why it has not broke.
              Attached Files
              1969 EB, 88 Speed density EFI 302, HP D44 front w/ARB, Radius arm long arm, NP435, D20, D60 w/power lock rear, 4link rear with 4" stretch, Front and rear bumpers made by me.

              Comment


              • The rockstomper spindles came so after work today I spent some time on the bumper. I have the bumper just about done. I need to add the gussets for the receiver hitch, drill the holes for the frame mount, and make the corner supports that will run back to the frame.
                For the spindles I put a 1.5" x .120 wall tube through the 2" tube and welded it in place. The spindle slide in it nice and snug. I am thinking instead of welding the spindle I will drill a hole through the sleeve and spindle, then thread the spindle. This will allow me to bolt the spindle in place, which eliminates any heating of the spindle (some claim that is why they break) and it will allow me to completely remove the racks if desired. There is no slop in the sleeve and if I thread the spindle the bolt will suck it up tight to one side. What do you all think will this work or should I just weld the spindle to the sleeve?
                I am still working out how the latch system will work, I initially thought a saddle like FM posted would work best, but because the two racks will latch in the middle I can't go up that high without interfering with the tailgate. So I am thinking I could do about the same thing but reversed so that the saddle is on the swing gate and will wrap around the top tube of the bumper when closed.
                Here some more pictures:
                Attached Files
                69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

                Comment


                • That is nice and tight. I like it. I also like the idea of threading it and attaching it in with a bolt. You never know when you are going to bend that bumper, or want to reuse those spindles on revision2. You may think about using some locktite on the bolt, or possibly tacking the head so that the bolt coming out was because you wanted it to come out.
                  Marc D.
                  If you drive with rage, drive a cage.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by earlybronco72
                    That is nice and tight. I like it..

                    snicker, snicker
                    Vacaville, Ca
                    67 EB - D44, BB 9" (4:56's), front discs, Wristed arm, 5.5" + 2" BL, 37" MTR's on Hellcats, 302/NP435/D20, Bilsteins, Mastercraft Rubicons w/4pt's

                    Comment


                    • Very nice work Highlander... very nice!
                      It looks like you bobbed a bit off the bottom of your rear fenders. Is this a recent thing or has it been like that? (or am I just totally out in left field)?
                      1970 Bronco
                      My build thread

                      Comment


                      • I bobbed them for the new bumper. Now that the bumper is built I will bobb the quarter protectors and put them back on.
                        69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

                        Comment


                        • That is coming out real nice Steve. Keep it up and we'll be building another one.

                          Comment


                          • Nice work Steve, I like how you sleeved the tube for the spindles that should work great.

                            FM <><
                            72EB, one-ton fab project that will never end

                            Be on your guard; stand firm in the faith; be men of courage; be strong. Do everything in love.
                            1 Cor 16:13-14

                            Comment


                            • Got a little bit more done tonight. The spindles are bolted in with countersunk bolts, the main tubes for both swing gates are in place and latches are installed.

                              Don't mind the big dent in my tailgate one of my employees drove a quad into it
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by highlander; 08-15-2007, 10:10 PM.
                              69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

                              Comment


                              • .....Don't mind the big dent in my tailgate one of my employees drove a quad into it
                                Sure looking good. How do you like the latch? That dent makes me mad, and it's not even my rig.

                                Galen
                                Last edited by 720Racer; 08-15-2007, 10:41 PM.
                                Originally posted by 71BRONCO71 at Buck Island 6/25/11
                                I can do that so much better myself..........1, 2, 3 GOODNIGHT!!!

                                Comment

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