Long time a comin...

[bob_lafrentz]

Hi guys,

I should have started this thread a couple years ago when I bought my bronco. But... who knows...

Anyways, over the past couple years, I have made some major improvements to it. First, I installed a 2 inch body lift. Then, I rebuilt the rear axle and found a 77 Dana 44 and rebuilt it (differential work was done by a shop). The rear axle is still the stock small bearing, 28-spline Ford 9-inch. The Dana 44 is pretty much stock too except I put F-150 axles in it (cut down by Dutchman). Both are open 3.50's. All of this I completed in a very small 1 car apartment garage! And yes, there is enough room to pull all the axles out, but you have to set the Bronco very carefully as you will only have a couple inches to spare on each side!

Next was a NV4500 and Atlas II. I found a real good deal on a used combo that only had about 1000k miles on it. After that, I installed a Centech body harness and and Flaming River tilt steering column.

My most recent completed project was a 93 Mustang 5.0. I had it rebuilt by a local shop and bored over. Also, everything was ported and polished. Other than that, pretty much a stock mustang motor. I installed it with Ryans EFI harness. The fuel system is just a stock ford high pressure pump, nothing else.

Now, I am in the middle of installing a 3.5" suspension lift. I bought BC coils, leafs, and heavy duty shackles with greasable bolts. I also purchased CAGE arms and WildHorses Track bar riser.

CRAWLIN 68 was kind enough to offer his help. This guy is incredible! As if you couldn't tell by his Bronco! He is expecting a baby any day now (literally) and still came by to help!! Man, it was great to work with him. The guy is a wealth of knowledge and a craftsman!

OK, OK. I'm getting long winded. Now for some pics...

[bob_lafrentz]

Here are some pics from the first day of the front suspension install.

[bob_lafrentz]

When I installed the Atlass II, it came very close to the frame rail. Not bad, but close. But now, I am going with CAGE long arms and the bracked to hold the arms on is right beside the Atlas II. Check this picture out. The CAGE bracket is actually touching the transfer case. I hope I do not get any crazy vibrations.

[bob_lafrentz]

Because the driver's side long arm bracket is so close to the transfer case, I could not put the bolts through the frame like I did on the passenger side. I know many people run these arms without the bolts and just weld them on. So, I welded the driver's side. Unfortuneatley, I do not have a welder. So, I borrowed a Lincoln 100. I know it is too light, but I'm hoping that my welds will hold well enough for me to drive the Bronco 45 miles to a large welder to weld it right.

I'm not a welder. But, I used .035 flux core wire and the welder was set to the highest voltage possible.

What do you guys think? Will it hold for 45 miles?

After I get it to the large welder, would you worry about it not being bolted? I figured I would stichweld everything up and plug weld the holes that were supposed to be for the bolts. Would you grind out these welds once I get it to the large welder or just weld a bead over the top of these?

[Daddy4zack]

45 miles you should be fine.. Just don't jump any curbs.. I would just run a good deep weld over those.. You should be good. Remember your frame is about 1/8th " thick and those Cage brackets are about 1/4" thick,, So the week spot is your frame not your brackets.. So weld good and you will be solid..


Any other ideas.. this is just my $.02..

Aaron

[bob_lafrentz]

How about bumpsteer? I bought the Wildhorses track bar riser, but won't be able to install it until I can get the Bronco to a large welder. The drag link and track bar are not parallel right now. Do you think it will be an issue to drive it like this for 45 miles to a larger welder?

[highlander]

Your welds should be good. You could drill and tap holes into the frame to install bolts on the outside. If you are still concerned you could also do the same on the inside if you counter sink the holes and use flat head bolts (see pic), they might make some long enough to go all the way through the frame but tapping would be better than nothing. My radius arm mounts have been welded only from Miller 135 for many years with lots of abuse and no problems.

[Daddy4zack]

No Go for it.. It will just be a fun ride.. Mine was way off when I bought my bronco. I was stupid and didnt know any better.. I drove it.. you will be fine..

A

[highlander]

How about bumpsteer? I bought the Wildhorses track bar riser, but won't be able to install it until I can get the Bronco to a large welder. The drag link and track bar are not parallel right now. Do you think it will be an issue to drive it like this for 45 miles to a larger welder?

Just don't hit a bump

You will be fine. Your build is looking good.

[bob_lafrentz]

Sounds good on the bumpsteer. It looks like once I get the track bar riser installed it won't be a problem, the first hole looks like it will make it about perfect. But, I wished they didn't put any holes in it and just let the installer decide where to drill the hole.

Like I said earlier, I'm no welder. Any pointers you want to toss out there will be greatly appreciated, especially on the riser bar and radius arm brackets. Thanks again.

[crawlin68]

That was fun wrenching with you on Saturday! Let me know if you need any more help. You should be fine to drive it to the big welder. Like Aaron said, remember when you are welding the Cage brackets that your frame is only 1/8 inch and the brackets are 1/4 inch, so keep most of your heat directed at the brackets. On the trac bar riser, both your axle tube and bracket are 3/8, so crank up the heat and go nice and slow so you get some good penetration. Don't forget to disconnect your battery to protect your ECM. Look'n good!

[Daddy4zack]

On the trac bar riser, both your axle tube and bracket are 3/8, so crank up the heat and go nice and slow so you get some good penetration.

Is this true? I thought the axle tube was a thinner metal.. I am about to weld my riser on also but someone told me,, sometime ago that the axle housing is thinner and to take it easy on it. Just tring to get it strait and not screw anything up..

Thanks
Aaron

[crawlin68]

I could be wrong, but I thought it was 3/8. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

[House]

Is this clearance issue from your custom crossmember or clocking on the tranny adapter? Or is this always the issue with the Atlas TC???

[highlander]

Bronco D44 and 78-79 HPD44 are 5/16" thick tubes, the weld on wedge F100-150 are 3/8". Atleast this is what I have gathered, from researching the WAH which does not work in the 3/8" tubes because there is not enough room for the sleeve and the axle shaft inside the tube.