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Project Crawlin68

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  • My machine shop charges 150 to balance. They do the heavy and light side of the rods and the pistons within 1 gram or eachother. This includes the crank, balancer and flywheel high speed balance as well.
    “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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    • Originally posted by Delta 4 Wheel
      My machine shop charges 150 to balance. They do the heavy and light side of the rods and the pistons within 1 gram or eachother. This includes the crank, balancer and flywheel high speed balance as well.

      Thats good to hear. Some of these places that charge by the hour could kill you if your stuff is out of wack.

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      • In doing some more research today, I got in touch with a real good guy at AD Performance up in WA. Seems to really know his stuff and took the time to spend about 30 minutes talking with me today. He sells stroker kits from CHP, Scat and Eagle. For our application, he recommended the Scat 347 kit.

        The Eagle kit is considerably more expensive and overkill for what we are using these engines for. The CHP and Scat kit a similar and use a lot of the same parts. He likes the Scat kit for its rods. He said that the Scat rods are made of 4340 steel vs. the 5140 steel of the CHP kit and the Scat rods are machined much better. Just a better rod in his opinion. The crank in the Scat and CHP kits are identical as are the pistons. The pistons are forged Probe pistons and very good quality.

        Now on to price. The standard CHP kit is $799 and comes with the 5.400 rods which intersect the rings on the pistons. To upgrade to the 5.315 rods that do not intersect the rings adds $300 to the price, making the kit $1099.

        The Scat kit is $950 and can come with the 5.400 rods or the 5.315 rods for the same price. He also said that he would change out the flat top pistons to dish pistons for me at no charge. (normally this is an upgrade)

        He had no preference when it came to the 5.400 rods or the 5.315 rods. He said that he has been selling small block Ford, big block Ford, small block Chevy and big block Chevy stroker kits for years and years with the wrist pins intersecting the piston rings and has had no problems. He didn't know why, but for some reason when people blow up their 347's they are quick to blame the kit design rather than looking at what really caused the problem. He thought that was kind of funny because that intersecting design has been used for years and years and most people don't even realize that.

        Anyway, long post (sorry) but I think after talking with him , I am leaning towards buying the Scat kit.

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        • Not that it really matters in this application, but I have been pretty happy with SCAT cranks, rods, and other internals in the Volkswagen engines I have built over the years. They always seem to have pretty good products and quality control.

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          • Originally posted by House
            Not that it really matters in this application, but I have been pretty happy with SCAT cranks, rods, and other internals in the Volkswagen engines I have built over the years. They always seem to have pretty good products and quality control.

            Hey that's funny because I thought that same thing! I used a couple of their VW stroker kits back in day in my VW's too. Small world, huh?!

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            • Here is the SCAT kit that he is selling to me for $950. It's usually $999 plus the $25 upgrade for the dish pistons.

              CLICK HERE

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              • So does this mean we are going with scat? I need the piston measurements for the Std. kit to see if we need to bore your block. I will call chp because they use probe as well. Unless you wanna call...
                “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                • I'm kind leaning that way. What do you think? If you want to call for the piston measurement, call 877-273-0005 and talk to Brian. He's guy that I talked to yesterday, so he knows the scoop on what we are building this for.

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                  • Just letting people that the Scat kit was decided on and will getting to my house in a few days. I will do a brief build addition to this thread with some stroker pics.
                    “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                    • Dual Battry Box

                      I've been trying to decide where to mount my dual batteries for some time now so today I decided to mount them just behind the front seats. I built a box out of some 1/4 inch plate and angle iron. I cut a rectangle hole in the floor to sink the box down about 5 1/2 inches so the box didn't take up so much room in the bed and to lower the weight of the batteries. Here are some pics so far. I haven't made a lid for it yet.
                      Attached Files

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                      • Patrick, gonna put a lid over that as well to gain the space back?

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                        • Originally posted by crawlin68
                          I haven't made a lid for it yet.

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                          • Damn, a rock proof battery box. You could of made it double as a skid plate. Looking good!
                            70 EB, Frame up project, NP 435/203/205, FW hp d44, fw 9", EFI 302, Crab cage, Hanson front and rear

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                            • I know, I know! LOL. Mr. Overkill strikes again. I can't help myself. I just wanted it to be nice and strong. I probably could have made it out of 1/8 inch and it would have been fine.

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                              • Looks like you may even have a space to keep a couple quarts of oil next to the batteries. Looks great, and I would have made it out of 1/4" also. I like the overkill.
                                Marc D.
                                If you drive with rage, drive a cage.

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