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The 60 kunckles crack mainly because of People with Highsteer, or people running rams that are the correct travel.
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Mark Harris
71 Bronco, 9 inch, 60, c4, Stak 3 speed, and 42 inch balloons. -
Well, I will be running high steer, plan on hydro assist, and run 39.5" IROKS with 2.5" BS wheels. I did the the nice HD knuckles for the swap. Think I will still be ok?“I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJComment
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I can guarantee it won't brake as long as it sits in the garageWell, I will be running high steer, plan on hydro assist, and run 39.5" IROKS with 2.5" BS wheels. I did the the nice HD knuckles for the swap. Think I will still be ok?
When you say "nice HD knuckles" do yo umean the aftermarket ones like Patrick's?69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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Originally posted by highlanderI can guarantee it won't brake as long as it sits in the garage
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You will know when it leaves the garage because a tire will be up on your hood biotch!
No, not like Pats, I got the F250 full flat tops that are drilled and tapped on both the passenger and driver's sides.“I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJComment
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Just keeping you motivated!
You will know when it leaves the garage because a tire will be up on your hood biotch!
No, not like Pats, I got the F250 full flat tops that are drilled and tapped on both the passenger and driver's
I wouldn't worry about the knuckles to much, keep an eye on the high steer arm studs, if they get loose bad things happen. Other than that I havn't seen any issues with broken knuckles.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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Originally posted by Delta 4 WheelYou will know when it leaves the garage because a tire will be up on your hood biotch!
No, not like Pats, I got the F250 full flat tops that are drilled and tapped on both the passenger and driver's sides.
You will be fine with those. What high steer arms are you gonna run?
You should just sell your front axle and buy my F-250 axle that's built to the hilt and ready to bolt in.
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Shit, I already have a ton in mine with the OX locker, OX Joints, Warn shafts, chebby discs, selectro hubs...plus I pulled and rotated both tubes at the pumpkin for caster/pinion issues. I just might have more in mine than Patrick does!!
I know you both were just hackin....I need to feel a bit upitty..I know it's been to long in the garage...
I had planned on using Parts Mike arms.“I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJComment
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I used Parts Mike's arms too! They are awesome. Make sure that you get the longer ones so your tie rod will be a little further away from your axle. This will give you enough room to mount your ram assist later down the road. The shorter ones don't give you enough room and the ram won't fit. Don't ask how I know this.
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Thanks...good to know. Do you still have the short ones?? If so, maybe I can run these until I do ram...“I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJComment
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No I sure don't . They are long gone. Sorry.
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I got out the ol' grinder tonight and started grinding the welds that hold the inner C's on so I can rotate them. It actually wasn't that bad. About 30 minutes per side. On the first one I was holding the grinder at too steep an angle and ground into the tube deeper than I needed to. The second one was easy. You need to grind until you can see a clear line or crack where the two pieces meet. Then you know that you are through the weld. Now I just need to rotate them back a few degrees and weld them back in place.Attached FilesComment
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I also was comparing the stock knuckles to the Dedenbear knuckles and WOW! What difference. You can see the extra "meat" everywhere. Each Dedenbear knuckle weighs 5 lbs. more than the stock knuckle!
One "gottcha" that I was a little disappointed in, was the "Ford" Dedenbear knuckle is actually a Chebby knuckle! Look at the height of the steering arms! The stock Ford knuckle is much higher. The Dedenbear is a lot lower! All they do is drill a different pattern for the spindle bolts and call it a Ford knuckle (and of course, charge more for them!)
Now if you are going to run high steer arms, then this is a mute point. BUT, if you are going to run a TRO steering system, it's not going to be that high at all!Attached FilesComment
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That's to bad they are lower, if it were higher I would think that woud be the perfect place to run your ram steering to. Especially since you are eliminating the c-bushings there won't be any clearance issues.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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Yeah, I was pretty disappointed when I noticed that. Oh well, because I am running high steer arms, it won't be that big of a deal to me. I just wanted to make sure that anyone else thinking of buying these knew about this before they made the purchase.Comment
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